Lemberger: Odd Name, Great Wine

What’s in a name? Well, if you’re a grape called Lemberger you have the misfortune of sounding somewhat similar to Limburger, the odiferous and much maligned cheese.

Equating the two names may well be the only reason why Lemberger wines haven’t caught on among wine drinkers, although they have always enjoyed a small but loyal following. The grape has origins in Germany and is also produced in Austria. The wine features lots of jammy, berry flavors – particularly blackberries – and mild tannins. Prices generally run in the $10 to $20 a bottle range, so what’s not to like?

One of my all-time favorite Lembergers comes from Kiona Winery, located in the Red Mountain area of Eastern Washington. Kiona has produced this varietal for over 20 years and picked up plenty of awards and recognition for it along the way.

Their 2002 vintage has lots of berry flavors with spicy notes, a bit of oak and mild tannins, which combine to make it highly enjoyable. It’s also priced right at about $12 a bottle and is widely distributed in the Bellingham area.

Several other Washington wineries now produce Lemberger and as the grape starts to grow in popularity you can expect to see more of it on the shelves. Get over the name game and give it a try; it’s a great little wine worth checking out.

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