Walla Walla Appellation Extends Beyond State’s Borders

It may surprise you to know that distinct American wine growing regions (referred to as appellations) are not determined by wineries, grape growers or even state authority. They’re designated by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, a branch of the United States Department of the Treasury.

Because of this, appellations can extend beyond a state’s borders. A good example: the Walla Walla Valley Appellation, which straddles both Washington and Oregon and includes over 1,800 acres of renowned, “borderline” vineyards such as Seven Hills, Cayuse, Les Collines and Pepper Bridge.

The Walla Walla Valley Appellation is also home to several wineries that are located on or just south of the state line near the town of Milton-Freewater.

Last month I visited a few of these and was really impressed with Watermill Winery. Affable tasting room manger Victoria Richmond served a 2010 Dry Gewürztraminer (about $16) that was particularly enjoyable, with a gentle fragrance of jasmine and spice, flavors of ruby red grapefruit and lychee, and a crisp, clean finish.

The 2008 Estate Malbec (about $28) was also a winner, featuring generous raspberry and blackberry flavors with a bit of an edgy, brambly finish.

Although it wasn’t available for tasting, I also purchased a bottle of the rapidly disappearing 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (about $35). The wine took best cabernet honors at this year’s Northwest Wine Summit and is sourced entirely from grapes grown on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley.

Also near the Oregon side of the border is Zerba Cellars, Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Winery of the Year. Zerba features more white wines than one normally finds in this area, including chardonnay, roussanne, semillon, and viognier.

But my tastes leaned towards their four varietal, 2008 Wild Z Red Blend (about $20). This food-friendly, medium-bodied wine is packed with complex flavors of blueberry, black olive and dried herbs.

Located just a stone’s throw into Washington is Gifford Hirlinger Winery, which is quickly becoming one of my Walla Walla Valley favorites. Winemaker Mike Berghan is doing an outstanding job producing delicious wines at very reasonable prices from his cozy, contemporary tasting room.

Among the notables: The 2009 Stateline Red (about $16), a big, expressive, overachieving red blend and the 2008 Merlot (about $22) with gorgeous notes of black cherry and toasted vanilla. Dense and layered, the 2009 Estate Petit Verdot (about $32) opens with dark, juicy fruits that are balanced with a brighter, red currant finish. Enjoy now or later…it’s an instant classic.