Washington Wine of the Week – Selections for Fall, 2023

For the week of December 17, 2023: Bledsoe Family Winery 2021 Cabernet Franc – Drew Bledsoe and Josh McDaniel’s wines have always been a bit of a splurge, and Bledsoe’s Family Winery label is slightly more affordable than those from their flagship Doubleback Winery. That said, you should still be prepared for some stellar wines that are drinking beautifully, command a pairing with food, and will mature and develop even more depth for years to come. This Cabernet Franc is complex, intricate, and perfectly structured with aromatics and flavors of sweet cedar, slate, dried fig, and black currant. There’s a whisper of crushed herbs on the finish, and the wine carries a compact and concentrated quality that opens up nicely with proper aeration. Prime rib comes to mind as the perfect food-pairing partner. 200 cases produced.

Jerry Riener of Guardian Cellars with his 2022 Viognier (photo courtesy of the winery)

For the week of December 10, 2023: Guardian Cellars 2022 Two Twenty Viognier – For lovers of this varietal here’s an outstanding choice from winemaker Jerry Riener. Aged in new French oak barrels for 10 months, this Viognier hits the “sweet spot” by being not to light and bright and not too heavy-handed. Understated Bartlett pear, peach, and apricot flavors lead off, with a perfectly balanced finish that’s both slightly brisk and mildly creamy. Bonus selection: the winery’s second label, Newsprint, features a line of excellent, very affordable wines including the 2021 Malbec, a juicy, berry-centric red with a velvety soft finish. It’s flat-out delicious. The winery has tasting rooms in Woodinville and downtown Walla Walla.

For the week of December 3, 2023: Elephant Seven Wine 2021 Blue Mountain Vineyard Grenache – Elephant Seven may be the best boutique winery you’ve never heard of. With winemaker Josh West at the helm, the focus is strictly on Rhone varietals originating from the Walla Walla Valley. The results have been spectacular and descriptors such as fresh, delicate, pretty, and purity of fruit come to mind. This Grenache is a stunner, with red currant and white strawberry on the palate, accented with lovely touches of orange zest, cinnamon spices, and wet stone. The finish is both brisk and lingering, adding to the wine’s complexity. This could easily be one of the best Washington Grenaches you’ve ever tasted. Only 140 cases produced.

For the week of November 26, 2023: Lydian Wines from Avennia – This week, three new releases from Avennia take center stage…and all of them have to be on your must-buy list.

Lydian is a “second label” for Avennia, which is not to infer there’s a drop in quality from the winery’s flagship label. On the contrary, these are solid and beautifully crafted wines by winemaker/partner Chris Peterson and his team and the fact that they’re priced at $25 or less is extraordinary.

The 2022 Alto is an 80/20 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon with generous flavors of citrus, ruby-red grapefruit, and a bit of New Zealand-esque gooseberry and key lime on the finish. This should be your go-to seafood wine for pairing with oysters, scallops, and ceviche; the 2021 GSM carries a core of dark cherry and plum fruit, with a dreamy, velvety finish of caramel, butterscotch, and crème brȗlée. It’s an exquisitely balanced and absolutely gorgeous red wine blend; and the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon features aromatics of basil, oregano, and licorice, with flavors of black currant, plantain, and dark chocolate that are textured, complex, and contemplative. This could easily be your higher-end ‘spaghetti red’ as well as a top choice for a pairing with fillet mignon.

Avennia and Lydian Wines are available at the winery’s three tasting room locations: Woodinville, Walla Walla, and on Red Mountain.

For the week of November 19, 2023: Forgeron Cellars 2020 Zinfandel – Left unchecked, Zinfandel can be a brash, overly fruity, high-alcohol monster. And then, there are efforts such as this new release from Forgeron, that demonstrate how a well-balanced Zin can be understated, layered, and outright delicious. This wine displays bright red berry, pomegranate, and cranberry flavors, with background notes of bramble and black pepper. The finish carries a pleasant, somewhat earthy quality, that brings to mind Copeland Vineyard fruit (although this one is sourced from renowned Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA). It’s nicely complex and makes for an excellent sipper as well as a great food pairing partner…perhaps with that Thanksgiving turkey. Only 150 cases produced.

For the week of November 12, 2023: Craftsman Cellars 2018 Bungalow Red – Winemaker Greg Shelman has been turning out some nice wines from his Spokane winery (with some very cool labels), and he emphasizes reds originating from France’s Bordeaux region. This combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec opens with aromatics of beeswax and cherries and flavors of dark plum. The middle stanza comes through as bright and lean, with an emphasis on cranberry, pie cherry, and wild strawberry, and the finish resembles an Italian Amarone, with dried fruits of raisins and plums as well as a sprinkling of cocoa powder. Gold medalist at this year’s Pacific Northwest Wine Competition.

For the week of November 5, 2023: Barons Winery 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – Barons will soon be closing its doors forever, and the winery is going out with a bang with this incredible Cabernet, sourced from three Yakima Valley Vineyards: Dineen, Corvus, and Stillwater Creek. Stephanie Warner had a hand in crafting it, and she’s been earning 90+ scores from everyone, including a 96-point/Double Gold achievement from judges at the 2023 Pacific Northwest Wine Competition. Bright cedar, cherry compote, and fresh blueberry flavors come to the forefront, with nuances of nutmeg, cigar box, and spice cabinet on the finish. The tannins are present, but beautifully integrated, and the wine promises to develop even more character over the next seven to ten years. Certain to sell out quickly, so stock up your cellar now before it’s gone.

For the week of October 29, 2023: Revelry Vintners 2019 Range Grenache/Syrah – Winemaker/Owner Jared Burns is producing some lovely wines at his Walla Walla winery and they’re indicative of what today’s consumers are trending towards: wines with nuanced flavors that aren’t heavy-handed and easy to pair with a variety of foods. This newly released Grenache/Syrah is absolutely gorgeous, with beautiful aromas and flavors of spiced strawberries and raspberries. More baking spices come through on the finish, along with a nice streak of acidity. It’s perfect for serving throughout the fall season as an accompaniment to savory stews, roasted meats and vegetables.

For the week of October 22, 2023: Desert Wind Winery 2019 Tempranillo – Although Tempranillo hasn’t yet broken into the top ten of red varietals produced in Washington, it’s firmly established itself as an easy-to-find choice for lovers of the grape. Desert Wind Winery, located in Prosser, is one of many wineries that does an excellent job with Tempranillo, and this vintage earned them a Gold Medal and 92-point score at the 2023 Pacific Northwest Wine Competition. It’s a wonderfully complex wine, with aromas and flavors of dried red apple, cinnamon toast, red plum, pie cherry, and tobacco leaf, capped with a hint of dark chocolate on the finish.

For the week of October 15, 2023: Cascadian Outfitters Rose’ Bubbles – The days of dissing canned wines are long gone…and with good reason. With quality improving and convenience and less waste as plusses, wine in a can is a fun and tasty option for those who enjoy their adult beverages on the go. This pretty, pink sparkler is packed with white strawberry and watermelon flavors and a splash of ruby-red grapefruit on the finish is complemented with a touch of sweetness. A note of caution: the easy-to-drink can comes in a 375 ml size, which is equivalent to one-half of a standard 750 ml bottle.

For the week of October 8, 2023: Board Track Racer “The Vincent” 2022 Chardonnay – Board Track Racer is a second label for Mark Ryan Winery that includes a line of wines that are approachable, affordable, and absolutely delicious. This tasty Chardonnay (nicely priced at only about $20) displays generous flavors and aromas of pear, Fuji apple, and white peach. It strikes the perfect balance between bright and creamy, with a lingering finish of stone fruits when served slightly chilled. Bonus selection: the 2020 BTR Malbec, packed with yummy blackberry and blueberry compote flavors accented with finishing notes of cinnamon, spices, and warm vanilla bean (about $28).

For the week of October 1, 2023: Reininger Winery 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon – Finding older vintages of previously releases can be a bit tricky sometimes, but many wineries offer them as library wines that can be purchased through their website. This Cab from Reininger is a good example, and the wine is drinking beautifully right now. Ample flavors of blueberry, black currant, and dark plum predominate, with subtle, lovely undertones of mint and cedar along with seamlessly integrated tannins. A pairing with slow-roasted beef pot roast and root vegetables, lightly seasoned with black pepper and clove was absolutely sublime.

Photo courtesy of Gard Vintners (gardwine.com)

For the week of September 24, 2023: Gard Vintners 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – From Lawrence Vineyards in the Royal Slope AVA, this well-crafted, well-structured Cab is a must for serious wine drinkers and lovers of the varietal. Fragrant espresso and dark berry fruit aromatics lead to super-concentrated blackberry, black currant, chocolate, anise, and black olive flavors. An unexpected – and very pleasant – finish of bright acidity gives the wine a bit of lift and balance.

Be sure to provide it ample aeration time and the wine really opens up; dark fruits come to the forefront and offer you a hint of its full potential. With a slightly grippy finish, another five to seven years in the cellar is highly recommended. Gard Vintners features tasting rooms in both Eastern and Western Washington State in Woodinville, Ellensburg(!), and Walla Walla.

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