Smaller Wineries Such as Chinook Wines Pay Attention to the Small Details

The old adage, “the bigger the better” certainly doesn’t apply to Washington wineries. Not to slam the big guys, but a smaller winery, such as Chinook Wines in Prosser, often provides you with such meticulous attention to the little details of winemaking that they literally jump right out of the glass and make you take notice.

Husband and wife owner/winemakers Clay Mackey and Kay Simon recently marked Chinook’s 25th year of operations, and they continue to produce some of the Yakima Valley’s finest wines.

I met with Simon a few weeks ago at a wine and cheese tasting at Bellingham’s Quel Fromage in Fairhaven. One thing that struck me about her wines is how closely they resemble European, Old World-style varietals. That is, the fruit flavor component of her wines is very reserved, meaning you won’t get broadsided by a fruit bomb that might overwhelm the wine’s other characteristics. It also means that they make excellent wines to pair with a variety of foods.

Current releases include the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (about $17), a lovely, dry white wine that’s slightly herbaceous. Fifty percent of the grapes were fermented in two to three year old oak barrels, while the other half was unoaked. Blended together, they produce a wine that I think is less acidic than many sauvignon blancs – and certainly more elegant. It paired beautifully with both a Guapier, a creamy Washington-made cheese that resembles a Morbier, and a Boschetto, a decadent Italian cheese made with black and white truffles.

Also available is the 2006 Cabernet Franc (about $21), another gem of a wine that begins with a sultry, smoky aroma, followed by complex flavors of dried cherry, tobacco and smoke. I loved how this wine was complemented by the creamy, nutty flavors of the Fleur des Alpes cheese from France that was served at the tasting.

In addition to Quel Fromage, Chinook Wines can be purchased at the Fairhaven Haggen, Compass Wines in Anacortes and Slough Food in Edison. They’re also served at the Rhododendron Café in Bow and the Willows Inn on Lummi Island.