For the week of June 12, 2016: Forgeron Cellars 2012 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – This completely over-the-top Cabernet from winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla will put you in state of red wine bliss. Open a bottle, and you’ll feel like you’re walking through a field of wild blackberries. This fruit carries over to the palate, along with flavors of black plum and currant, spicy cinnamon accents and a finish that simply will not stop. Nearly half the grapes were sourced from Walla Walla AVA vineyards, and a bit of Petit Verdot was blended in. Exceptional!
For the week of June 5, 2016: Bergevin Lane Winery “Linen” Wines – Bergevin Lane has been a presence on the Walla Walla wine scene for many years and their Linen series of wines provide wine enthusiasts with solid, dependable choices at incredibly reasonable prices. Current releases include Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Carmenere, Merlot, and Rose…all priced at about $12 to $14 a bottle.
For the week of May 29, 2016: Lost River Winery 2014 Pinot Gris – Pinot Gris has been a rising star among Washington white wines and it now trails only Riesling and Chardonnay in terms of production. This selection from winemaker John Morgan is a prime example of why this wine has become so popular. Tropical fruit, pear and citrus flavors predominate, and although it’s made with a bit of residual sugar you won’t taste the sweetness because of the wine’s brisk acidity. The end result is a refreshing Pinot Gris with a bit of heft, big mouthfeel, and excellent food-pairing potential.
For the week of May 22, 2016: Naches Heights Vineyard Non-Vintage Riesling – The Naches Heights Appellation boasts some of the highest elevation vineyards in the State, and this winery is located on a scenic plateau northwest of Yakima. Winemaker Phil Cline has done a nice job with this wine…packing it with tropical pineapple, Granny Smith apple, and crisp peach flavors along with a bright flourish of lime zest to balance out the trace of sweetness. This is classic, flavorful Washington Riesling and certain to be a crowd-pleaser.
For the week of May 15, 2016: Masquerade Wine Company Non-Vintage Moscato – Located in Bellingham, Masquerade is one of only a handful of Washington wineries that produce sparkling wine. This one is a sensory delight, with lovely floral aromas of gardenia and honeysuckle, big flavors of spiced pear and lychee and an off-dry finish with just a shade under 2% residual sugar. The wine’s gentle sweetness will provide a nice contrast to 2-star or higher Asian cuisine or it can be enjoyed chilled as a perfect spring or summertime sipper.
For the week of May 8, 2016: Tucannon Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon – If you prefer your Cabernets “drink ready” with a minimum of cellaring time, this gorgeous Cab from the Red Mountain winery is a perfect fit. Incredible aromas of beeswax, vanilla wafer, and meadow grasses lead off, with delicious red cherry flavors on the palate and a finish of toasted hazelnut. It’s a bit lighter in body than most Washington Cabernets, and a refreshing alternative for those who prefer a red that’s a bit less “heavy-handed.”
For the week of May 1, 2016: Jones of Washington 2015 Rose of Syrah – Fruity, but not sweet, this absolutely amazing Rose is one of the best Roses – and one of the best wines, period – that I’ve tasted this year. Strawberry, raspberry, watermelon, and honeydew flavors hit you with mouth-watering precision and are backed by steely acidity and Ancient Lakes’ signature minerality. The icing on the cake is the $14 price tag, which means you should be buying this wine by the case and drinking it regularly.
For the week of April 24, 2016: Maryhill Winery 2012 Marvell GSM – Let’s raise a glass to Maryhill Winery with its stunning tasting room location, wonderful, cordial owners Craig and Vicky Luethold, and award-winning winemaker Richard Batchelor. This latest version of Marvell – a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre – is a grand slam with big, bold aromas and flavors of chocolate cherry that end with a flourish of cracked black pepper and sturdy tannins. Bring on anything beef to serve with this amazing red wine.
For the week of April 17, 2016: Memaloose 2011 Mistral Ranch – The Columbia Gorge Appellation has to be one of the most diverse wine regions in Washington. Over 45 varietals are grown here, and this wine from Memaloose showcases two of them: Syrah and Grenache. It’s an easy-to-drink red wine; medium in body with dark fruits to start before finishing with leaner flavors of red currant and red cherry. Try it with a duck, pork or roast beef entree.
For the week of April 10, 2016: GLM Wine Co. 2013 The Denier – Tom Davis and Tracey DeGraff run a great operation at their winery in Blaine. Seemingly reluctant to produce a mainstream wine, they’ve struck the right chord with this 80/20 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, sourced from Pasco’s Burgess Vineyards. There’s a nice plummy quality to this wine, with a distinctive yet subtle finish of blackberry and blueberry. Medium to full-bodied with good texture, it’s drinking beautifully now…and additional cellaring promises to make it even better.
For the week of April 3, 2016: William Church Winery 2013 Malbec – Rod and Leslie Balsley of Woodinville have a number of killer red wines currently available (to go with an equal stunning Viognier for those who prefer white wine). This Gamache Vineyards Malbec is a prime example, with lovely floral aromas, generous spiced berry flavors, and a lenghty, velvety finish. There’s an elegant quality to this wine that suggests a prime rib pairing, although I also wouldn’t hesitate to try it with anything off the barbeque including lamb burgers or a big, juicy steak.
For the Week of March 27, 2016: Portteus Winery 2014 Rattlesnake Red – Paul Portteus started his winery long before the Rattlesnake Hills region where his vineyards are located earned AVA status. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Sangiovese is a well-priced red that showcases a few of these varietals. The Cab provides some nice body and tannic structure, the Zin contributes a mouthful of spicy raspberry flavors, and the Sangio offers a bit of bright acidity to balance out the package. With a dollop of vanilla on the finish, this is an easy-to-drink red with plenty of broad-ranging appeal.
For the week of March 20, 2016: Palencia Wine Company 2014 Albarino – Victor Palencia continues to amaze us with this incredible effort with one of the State’s newer varietals. This refreshing, complex white wine is a sensory delight, with aromas and flavors of apple and spiced pear, backed by bracing acidity and finished with notes of lime zest, allspice and beautiful minerality. Further evidence of Palencia’s winemaking prowess: his 2015 Albarino, which took best of show honors at this year’s Cascadia Wine Competition and has just been released to the public.
This article originally appeared in the June/July, 2016 issue of Bellingham Alive magazine.
Late spring and early summer is the time of year when Northwesterners will use almost any excuse to pack up the picnic basket, grab a bottle of wine, and dine outdoors.
Leave those heavier, full-bodied reds for the barbeque. Picnicking practically demands you choose something lighter, brighter, and slightly chilled; and here’s where most white whites and rosés really shine.
You’ll find that they pair perfectly with a variety of standard picnic foods such as fried chicken, pasta and potato salads, or even a simple baguette with mild cheeses.
Be sure to put these wines at the top of your list and you’ll be near-certain to please anyone joining you on your next picnic. Here are a few recommendations:
Chill down the Ruffino Lumina 2014 Pinot Grigio (about $10) and you’ve got an excellent picnic-friendly/budget-friendly white wine. It’s clean and green with lovely aromatics of clover and white peach along with zesty lemon/lime flavors and great finishing acidity.
Greek wines have come a long way as of late and if you’ve been concerned about the quality, the Alpha Estate 2015 Malagouzia (about $18) should put those fears to rest. This full-bodied white wine strikes a nice balance between its herbaceous and citrus flavor profiles and a crisp, yet lingering finish is capped with a subtle but distinctive note of evergreen and rosemary.
New Zealand’s Marlborough appellation is world-famous for its Sauvignon Blanc and Kim Crawford Wines serves up a pair of current releases that will make great picnic wines. Their 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (about $18) is loaded with lemongrass and key lime flavors and accentuated with racy acidity and a hint of strawberry rhubarb; and the 2015 Small Parcels, Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc (about $26) is a bit heavier in body and broader ranging with flavors of tropical fruit, pineapple, ruby-red grapefruit and a kiss of stone fruits on the trailing end.
If you prefer your Sauvignon Blancs a little less edgy, then Walla Walla’s Palencia Wine Company 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (about $18) should easily put a smile on your face. This absolute gem of a wine is virtually colorless, yet it explodes with brioche aromatics, luscious pear, peach and nectarine flavors and a brisk finish with a hint of herbaceousness.
Also purchase-worthy is the Palencia Wine Company 2015 Albariño (about $18), which took Best of Show honors at this year’s Cascadia Wine Competition in Hood River, Oregon. Granny Smith apple and kiwi fruits lead off, followed by touches of allspice, green herb, and citrus zest. Try it with a shrimp salad or smoked salmon and cream cheese on crostini.
This year’s release of the Conundrum 2014 California White Wine (about $25) marks the 25th anniversary of a diverse, proprietary blend that’s a perennial favorite of many wine enthusiasts. It explodes with big, juicy Bartlett pear and apricot flavors to start, followed by crisp apple on the mid-palate, and then a faintly sweet finish with a touch of ambrosia.
PRETTY IN PINK
The Tarantas Non-Vintage Sparkling Rosé (about $10) from Spain is packaged in a beautiful, elongated bottle and made from certified organic Bobal grapes. Generous red currant and red berry flavors fill the glass, followed by a soft, dry finish that’s lightly carbonated.
Another sparkler worth considering is the Ruffino Non-Vintage Sparking Rosé (about $15). Flavors and aromas of wild strawberries highlight this newly released Prosecco that’s blended with a touch of Pinot Noir to provide a lovely shade of pink. The off-dry finish is both slightly crisp and slightly creamy, giving the wine a near-elegant quality that makes it a pleasure to taste.
Rich Funk of Walla Walla’s Saviah Cellars has produced yet another winner with his 2015 The Jack Rosé (about $12). This 50/50 blend of Tempranillo and Sangiovese offers plenty of bang for the buck, with ample red cherry and berry flavors, a splash of acidity and great food-pairing potential; perhaps with prosciutto-wrapped cantaloupe or honeydew melon.
Bold and tasteful, Oregon’s Stoller Family Estate 2015 Pinot Noir Rosé (about $25) displays a shimmering, pale pink color with pleasant aromas of field flowers and slate. It’s followed by an impressive array of flavors from citrus to green melon to Red Delicious apple. A picnic food pairing suggestion: crab-stuffed deviled eggs.
Finally, be sure to try the just-released Jones of Washington 2015 Rosé of Syrah (about $14). The wine’s striking ruby color is matched by mouthwatering flavors of raspberry, strawberry, and watermelon along with laser-sharp acidity and steely minerality on the finish. Incredibly well-priced, it’s an exceptional choice for any picnic basket.
June 16 to 18, 2016 – Come to Walla Walla for a three-day celebration of Washington’s most popular red varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon.
Included in the festivities will be a vintage pour at Dunham Cellars (already sold out), a winemaker panel and discussion at the Marcus Whitman Hotel and a Grand Cabernet Sauvignon wine tasting and winemaker dinner at Whitman College on the 17th.
On the 18th, a winemaker dinner series will be held at various locations throughout the Walla Walla Valley.
For complete event information and ticket purchases visit www.wallawallawine.com.
This article originally appeared, in part, in the April/May, 2016 issue of Bellingham Alive magazine.
If you think that most of Washington’s wineries are large, faceless, corporate-owned entities you might be in for a surprise. In fact, the vast majority of the 850-plus wineries in the state are small, family-owned enterprises that oversee every phase of the winemaking process…from crushing, fermenting and aging the grapes, to bottling, marketing, and distributing the finished product.
This hands-on, personal touch is the hallmark of many smaller wineries, and the “start-to-finish” process requires long hours and dedicated service. But most family-maintained wineries feel this approach results in a quality, attention-to-detail product…and they wouldn’t have it any other way.
Here’s a look at two successful Washington wineries and the people behind these 100-percent family-owned and operated businesses:
Peter and Olga Osvaldik immigrated to the United States from Czechoslovakia with their son, Peter Jr., in 1983. The Osvaldiks moved to Bellingham in 1990 and established Dynasty Cellars five years later, drawing on over 150 years of winemaking experience from Peter’s paternal family.
After progressing through the “hobby phase,” Dynasty had its first commercial release in 2006. “I remember our first commercial wine…seven tons of grapes (at about 100 pounds at a time) through a small ratchet press. It was crazy,” Peter says with a laugh. “I still have that press as a reminder of our beginnings.”
From its inception, every task associated with the winery has been a family affair. Peter and son Eric work together through the crushing and production phases while Olga and their daughter Monica primarily work in the tasting room and on special events. “We don’t have titles,” Peter says. “We are whatever we need to be that day!”
The winery currently sources all of its grapes from Les Collines Vineyards in Walla Walla, reflecting Peter’s desire to produce single vineyard/single varietal wines.
Current releases include the 2012 vintages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, a gorgeous Merlot with silky-soft dark berry flavors, and a bold Zinfandel with blackberry fruit and spicy, peppery finishing notes.
Scheduled for release in April of this year are a 2015 White Wine blend of 90-percent Chardonnay and 10-percent Semillon, and a 2015 Off-Dry Riesling. The remainder of 2016 will include releases of a number of 2013-vintage red varietals including Tempranillo, Primitivo, Syrah and Merlot.
The winery’s sense of family is apparent from the minute one steps into the tasting room, where guests are warmly greeted and often asked, “What can I pour for you?” This, coupled with the care that goes into every bottle, has made Dynasty Cellars a favorite among local wine enthusiasts.
Downplaying credit for his winemaking efforts, Peter humbly notes, “The fate and quality of the wine is determined at the end of fermentation. You’re the guardian; (just) keep the barrels safe and sound until you’re ready to bottle.”
Dynasty Cellars is located at 2169 East Bakerview Road in Bellingham and open Thursday through Saturday from 1 pm to 6:30 pm and Sunday from 1 pm to 5 pm. More information: dynastycellars.com.
Tucannon Cellars is located about 15 minutes west of the Tri-Cities, just outside the Red Mountain Appellation. The winery is named for the Tucannon River near the Blue Mountains in southeastern Washington and owned by father-and-son duo Phil and Ethen Warren and Phil’s wife Danette.
Phil started producing wines in 2008, primarily, “to see if he could make a small batch of handcrafted wine for private consumption” notes Ethen. The elder Warren’s wines became popular among friends who, “got so tired of waiting for the next batch they helped and supported him in the winery licensing process,” Ethen recalls.
That took place in 2011, and Phil continued to produce wines in the garage at his Pasco home. Then, as a logical step in the growth of the winery, he purchased Oakwood Cellars on Red Mountain in February, 2014, where Ethen serves as tasting room manager and assistant winemaker while Danette handles the winery’s administrative work.
At that time, Tucannon was primarily focused on making red wines. “We started out just doing reds, but we’ve really gotten more serious about white wines,” Ethen says. That may be in part to a number of stainless steel tanks they acquired from Oakwood, which have been instrumental in the production of white wine varietals such as Chardonnay, Viognier, and Riesling.
In addition to sourcing grapes from the state’s renowned Burgess and Alder Ridge Vineyards, to name a few, the Warrens have also planted two acres of estate-grown red varietals: Carménère and Mourvèdre.
Other red wines that have just been released include a lovely 2012 Cabernet Franc, with dried red fruits, hints of milk chocolate, and sweet cedar on a lingering finish with a hint of earthiness; a 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, with intoxicating aromatics of vanilla wafer, beeswax and meadow grasses followed by red cherry flavors and a touch of hazelnut; and an outstanding 2012 Merlot with black cherry and licorice on the palate, toasted oak accents, and a nice, textured finish.
Production has expanded to about 1,800 cases annually, but that hasn’t had an effect on all the small details the Warrens address while operating their family-owned winery. “We still do everything by hand,” Ethen says, and, noting his increasing involvement in all phases of the winemaking process, “I wouldn’t be able to do it without my dad…and our friends are (also) still a tremendous help.”
Tucannon Cellars’ tasting room is located at 40504 North DeMoss Road in Benton City, just minutes north of Interstate 82, and open Thursday, Sunday, and Monday from 11 am to 5 pm and Friday and Saturday from 11 am to 6 pm. Wines can also be ordered on line at tucannoncellars.com.
This year’s Taste Washington was an incredible event! Washington once again did itself proud with an amazing array of wines from over 225 wineries that, simply stated, seem to get better every year.
Add to this the terrific and personable winemakers, their staff, and distributors who helped serve wines at this year’s event and you had all the makings of a world-class wine event.
During my time at the Grand Tasting on April 2, I had the good fortune to run into New York’s Yannick Benjamin, one of the stars of last season’s “Uncorked” TV series on the Esquire Network. I had the opportunity to chat briefly with Yannick, who mentioned how impressed he was with some of Washington’s Syrahs.
That’s high praise from someone who is both a wine educator and on the cusp of becoming a Master Sommelier. I wish him the best and would also like to acknowledge the Washington Wine Commission for organizing such a memorable weekend.