Marsanne Makes a Great Alternative to Mainstream White Wines

Last week I focused on the white wine varietal roussanne, and this week we’ll take a look at marsanne, a grape with many similarities.

Like roussanne, marsanne is thought to have originated in the Rhône Valley of France. It’s also used primarily for blending purposes, especially with roussanne and viognier, and it’s somewhat viscous with a waxy, oily mouthfeel. Along with roussanne, it is one of a handful of white wines that can be cellared for long periods of time.

The grape’s characteristics generally include pleasant nutty, herbal aromatics and flavors along with melon and citrus fruits. It’s also low in alcohol with moderate acidity, making it a terrific wine to pair most seafood – particularly lobster and scallops – roasted vegetables such as butternut squash, and pasta and risotto served with a touch of heavy cream.

Surprisingly, most of the world’s marsanne is now grown in Australia, but it’s also caught on domestically, with small plantings in both California and Washington. You’re likely to find it in the Northwest as part of a blend, but it’s also bottled on its own by a small, but increasing number of wineries.

My advice is to have fun with this wine. It can range anywhere from subtle and reserved to big and assertive and chances are, if you’ve never tried it, you’ll find it to be unlike many of the other mainstream white wines you’re accustomed to.

Here are some marsannes I’ve enjoyed as of late for you to consider:

Mount Baker Vineyards 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Marsanne (about $8) – This is a prime example of an older vintage that’s holding up beautifully while some white wines from this time frame are past their prime. Brilliant golden color, gentle pear, allspice and nutmeg on the palate, and a big, viscous mouthfeel. Currently available at the winery tasting room, Ferndale Haggen, and The Market at Birch Bay at a blowout, bargain price.

Treana Winery 2009 White Wine (about $22) – I sampled this 50/50 blend of marsanne and viognier at the Vancouver BC Playhouse Wine Festival in March, and it was love at first sip. Peach and floral aromatics, pineapple and dried apricot flavors, a seductive, lengthy honey-like finish and just the right touch of minerality combine to make this spectacular wine from California’s Central Coast region.

Alexandria Nicole 2010 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Marsanne (about $28) – From Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills Appellation, this exquisite marsanne features plenty of melon, peach and nectarine flavors. The long, plush finish is capped with hints of hazelnut and spicy accents.