Glacial Lake Missoula Wine Company Takes Root in Blaine

The latest hotbed for premium wines in Washington State? Would you believe Blaine?

OK, so there are only two wineries currently in the Blaine area, but they’re both first class operations. I recently visited one of these wineries – Glacial Lake Missoula Wine Company (a mouthful, yes, so call it GLM for short) – and would easily designate it as a “must-try” destination for the serious red wine drinker.

GLM owner/winemaker Tom Davis and his partner Tracey DeGraff currently make only one wine: a Bordeaux-style red blend of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc grapes from Eastern Washington called “Deluge”. The wine is available for purchase in the 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages, and all are priced at around $39 a bottle.

Despite the uniqueness of the individual vintages, there’s a common thread of consistent quality that runs through each wine – an impressive feat that points to good winemaking.

The 2004 Deluge has a lovely nose of fresh raspberries, berry and cherry flavors and a finish that hints at lavender and violets, while the 2003 vintage has an intoxicating aroma of sweet cedar with dark fruit flavors and ample tannins on the finish. Both the 2003 and 2004 are drinking well now, but each has excellent cellaring potential.

The 2002 vintage is another gem, with black cherry flavors, a touch of bittersweet chocolate and supple tannins. I also had a sneak preview of the spectacular 2005 vintage, which is going to be a huge, fruit-forward wine. It’s still in the barrel and is scheduled to be bottled later this year.

GLM wines are available at Haggen stores in Ferndale and Barkley Village, Purple Smile Wines in Fairhaven and Compass Wines in Anacortes. You may also find them on the menu at Du Jour Bistro and Tivoli Restaurant in Bellingham. The tasting room, located at 1625 Boblett Street in Blaine, is open Saturdays from noon to 6 pm.