Riesling Makes A Comeback

Like clothing and hairstyles, wines seem to fall in and out of fashion. Pinot noir has been a popular choice as of late. A decade ago, merlot was the “in” wine to be drinking, and in the 80’s chardonnay was the undisputed favorite of any wine fashionista.

Now it’s rieslings turn.

Back in the 70’s, sweeter, fruity wines were the order of the day and Washington riesling was a perfect fit. Then as wine drinkers tastes matured and moved towards drier white and red wines, riesling was viewed by many as too one-dimensional and fell out of favor.

But today’s riesling is much more diverse in terms of style and taste. While it is sometimes still made with a fairly high sugar content, more often it’s produced in a dry to off-dry (slightly sweet) style. This transformation has made the wine attractive to many who are rediscovering it as well as a new generation of wine drinkers trying it for the first time.

Riesling is also an incredibly versatile food wine. It provides a nice contrast to well-aged cheeses and spicy Asian cuisine and complements a wide range of foods from salmon to roasted chicken to fresh fruit. It’s also a great starter wine, served chilled for sipping before the first course.

Here are some Washington rieslings I’ve tried as of late and think you might enjoy:

Columbia Winery 2006 Cellarmasters Riesling (about $11) – Bursting with peach and apricot flavors and backed by a surprising but pleasant touch of spice; this wine is reminiscent of a Gewurztraminer. The finish is also fairly sweet, but not overwhelming.

Nefarious Cellars 2006 Riesling (about $18) – Gentle flavors of baked apple, pear and tangerine melt into an off-dry finish. This elegant wine is a fine effort from the relatively new Chelan winery.

nullMilbrandt Vineyards 2006 Traditions Riesling (about $12) – Lovely orange blossom aromas are followed by delicate orange flavors, and an underlying mineral quality with a faintly sweet finish. This unique riesling is indicative of just how far the varietal has evolved over the past 30 years.

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