Towards the end of each year I like to use the Tri-Cities Wine Festival as a point of reference for evaluating Washington State’s performance in the wine industry.

The festival, held on November 7, basically outgrew its old venue at the Red Lion Inn in Pasco and moved this year to the Three Rivers Convention Center in Kennewick. There were more participants (about 100 wineries attended), more wines (well over 300 were poured), and a much better choice of varietals.

This was my 25th year at the festival, which, I suppose, qualifies me as much as anyone to offer up a few observations on how far we’ve come and also give you an idea of what to expect in the future.

 If you like volume, you’ve got it. There are dozens of new, smaller wineries to add to the State’s 650-plus total. Twenty five years ago there were only about 75.

 Newer varietals continue to gain ground. Exhibit one: increased choices such as sangiovese, tempranillo, barbera, and roussanne. Exhibit two: the Upland Winery 2006 Malbec, which captured best of show honors. None of these varietals was even listed in the festival tasting program 10 years ago.

 Prices are holding steady, with plenty of good values at $20 or less. A couple examples that I enjoyed at this year’s festival – both of which earned double gold medals – the Pend d’Oreille Winery 2007 Bistro Rouge (a five varietal blend sourced from Washington vineyards for $13), and the Russell Creek Winery 2007 Tributary (a cabernet/merlot blend for $20).

This year’s harvest also ended on a positive note, and the word from nearly everyone so far is that 2009 Washington wines are displaying beautiful color and excellent balance in quantities that should keep just about everyone happy.

You’ll be able to judge this for yourself when the 2009 whites begin to hit the shelves next spring, with a few early bird reds showing up in 2010 and the bulk of the rest in 2011. Until then, enjoy Washington’s best now, while anticipating a promising future.

Cheers and Happy New Year!

Zinfandel is one of several newer Washington State varietals that wine drinkers seem to be noticing and enjoying on a more regular basis.

If you follow my column with any regularity, you know that I’m a big proponent of this tasty, sometimes almost brash, red wine. Zinfandel falls into the versatile, nearly all-purpose wine category and it makes a great pairing partner with a wide range of foods such as beef, chicken, pork, lamb, and mild to medium aged cheeses.

Domestically, California has set the standard for zinfandel quality and production, and some of its vineyards have been planted and producing grapes for over 100 years. But Washington continues to make inroads among zin drinkers despite the fact that the wine is just beginning to be produced here in measurable quantities as a stand-alone varietal.

A good example, albeit a small one, is a blind tasting of zinfandels I participated in with a group of friends last month. The Portteus Vineyards 2006 Zinfandel (about $26) from Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills Appellation was the group favorite – ahead of seven other zinfandels from California.

Portteus makes what I call a classic, Washington-style zin that’s both spicy and fruit forward, and tasting participants loved this wine’s fragrant, plummy aroma, huge, brambly blackberry flavors and smack of black pepper on the finish.

Other notable group preferences from California included the 2007 Seven Deadly Zins (about $17), with dark plum and cherry flavors and sultry, smoky undertones; and the Rodney Strong 2007 Zinfandel (about $22) from Sonoma County, an elegant and polished zin with subtle touches of blueberry and spice.

Next week I’ll wrap up 2009 with a look at a few other varietals that are catching on with Washington wineries and give you some thoughts on what to expect from the state for the coming year.

Anelare is a small, privately owned winery in Eastern Washington that produces a limited number of red wines each year. Some of these wines are available to the general public for purchase, while some are not.

In order to have access to everything, you must apply for either a social or full membership and pay an annual fee ($249 and $996, respectively).

I suppose this sounds a bit like an upscale wine club, but if you like a winery with a certain degree of exclusivity, this may be the one you’re looking for. And at this time of year, it might also be the perfect gift for that difficult-to-buy-for, ultra-serious wine aficionado on your Christmas list.

In order to pull this off, of course, a winery has to deliver some seriously good wines. An accomplished winemaker is a must, and I was pleased to learn that Anelare uses the talented Victor Cruz, owner/winemaker of Cañon de Sol, who in turn learned the trade from one of the best, Fideltas Wines’ Charlie Hoppes.

Anelare’s 2007 vintages include four releases, two of which are available to the public. They include the 2007 Nonna Viola Red Wine ($24), a medium-bodied blend of syrah, cabernet, and merlot. It displays flavors of raspberry and thimbleberry, with pleasant notes of vanilla, oak and white pepper.

The 2007 Saint Helena Syrah ($28), is absolutely heavenly, with an abundance of black plum and cassis, accentuated with smoky nuances that melt into a lingering, violet-like finish. This is one bold, beautiful and sexy syrah.

Because the other two wines are exclusively for members, I won’t tip my hand too much about their details. Let’s just say that the 2007 Ciel du Cheval Syrah ($39), from Washington’s Red Mountain Appellation, and the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($44) from the Wahluke Slope, are superbly crafted, beautifully layered, richly textured wines that are well worth the price.

The winery also has a tasting studio in Kennewick (pictured above) that is available for both public and booked-in-advance private tastings. For more information, including membership details and other Anelare wines, visit anelare.com.

“Handpicked…Handsorted…Handmade”, is the mantra for owner/winemakers Tim and Kelly Hightower of Hightower Cellars.

I’ve known this husband and wife team for several years and watched them build their winery from the ground up with careful attention to the hundreds of little things it takes to run a winery. Think of them of that family-owned business that’s producing superlative wines in a small, eco-friendly facility next to some of the industry’s biggest players. Even the snooty, Gucci-like neighbors have to be just a bit envious.

The Hightowers had the foresight to purchase 15 acres of undeveloped land in Washington’s Red Mountain Appellation in 2002. They planted their own vineyards there in 2004, although they have and still do source some of their grapes from first-class vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley Appellations.

Today, they have four current releases of 2007 vintages; two of which include fruit from their estate vineyards.

The 2007 Murray White (about $16) is the winery’s only white wine, a lovely blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc with pear and citrus flavors and a splash of acidity. The Murray label is a tribute to the Hightower’s beloved yellow Lab, who passed away a few years ago.

Over half of the grapes for the 2007 Murray Cuvee (about $18) came from the Hightower’s own vineyards. It’s a lighter style, cabernet-based red wine blend that also includes merlot and cabernet franc.

The 2007 Murray Syrah (about $20) is the winery’s first estate bottled wine, an exceptional effort with an intense, dark color, lovely raspberry aromas and touches of spice and chocolate. This may very well be the best Washington syrah at this price currently on the market. Only about 250 cases were produced; go buy it now.

Finally, the 2007 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Walla Walla Valley Red Wine (about $28) is a supremely crafted merlot/cab blend with beautifully textured layers of dark fruits. Insanely under priced, yet comparable to wines produced within the Walla Walla region without the “reputation surcharge.”

You’ll find Hightower wines at Purple Smile Wines, Community Food Co-op, Haggen stores and the Prospect Street Café.

Last week I mentioned how good customer service during a visit to a winery can enhance your experience and increase the chances that you’ll come back again.

Add Alexandria Nicole Cellars to the list of Washington wineries that do an outstanding job of keeping their guests happy while providing them with a number of top notch wines.

The winery features two tasting rooms; one in Woodinville that’s open Thursday through Sunday from noon to 5 pm and another in Prosser (pictured at left) open 11 am to 5 pm seven days a week.

Don’t be fooled by the non-descript façade of the Prosser tasting room, which I’ve visited several times and highly recommend as a stop if you’re in the Yakima Valley. It’s located in an industrial park along with several other wineries in a renovated space previously occupied by Thurston Wolfe Winery.

Once inside, you’ll find a warm, dimly lit room with a tasting bar, small tables for seating, and an incredibly helpful staff.

But the highlight of the visit is a “secret” area, adjacent to the tasting room, that’s accessible by a sliding bookcase and available for private tastings. Once inside, you’ll find a tasting bar, cushiony chairs, and plates of grilled foccacia and assorted cheeses. The wines, service and overall experience make this well worth the $20 per person fee.

A few favorites include the 2008 Crawford Viognier (about $20), a big viognier filled with peach and tropical fruit flavors, touches of citrus, and an off-dry finish. A blend of roussanne, marsanne, and viognier, the 2008 Shepards Mark (about $20) is a bit more reserved but wonderfully complex with gentle floral aromas, hints of pineapple and lemon and a crisp finish.

For an excellent red wine, try the 2007 Quarry Butte (about $20), a cabernet-based blend of five varietals that could be classified as Bordeaux-style if not for the trace of syrah. It’s well structured with plenty of dark berry flavors and represents exceptional value for a wine of this caliber.

For more information on winery facilities, events, and other current releases go to alexandrianicolecellars.com.