I first visited Walla Walla Vintners in the mid-1990’s when only a handful of wineries existed in this now storied Washington wine region.

I recall meeting with winemaker Gordy Venneri and tasting some blockbuster red wines that were worthy of comparison to nearby Leonetti Cellar.

Little has changed since then except for the fact that things have gotten even better. Walla Walla Vintners still focuses only on red wines, and it’s a strategy that has worked well over the years. The winery has earned a reputation – and the accolades to go with it – for producing some of biggest and finest red wines in the Walla Walla area.

In today’s market, where some wineries stretch themselves thin with dozens of varietals, it’s refreshing to find that Venneri and winemaking partner Myles Anderson have chosen to concentrate on what they do best. Their small number of reds isn’t formulaic and reflects the quality of attention-to-detail winemaking.

Today’s reviewed wines are thoroughly enjoyable with ample aeration, but I think they’ll benefit even more with a little cellaring time. Simply put, these are the types of red wines that tell you slow down, relax, and savor each sip.

Here are my tasting notes on a few of the winery’s current releases:

2011 Columbia Valley Sangiovese (about $25) – Dark blueberry flavors lead off, with more of a brighter red currant edginess as the acidity gradually makes its way through. The transition is smooth, and faint finishing notes of vanilla bean and caramel result in an almost “elegant” sangiovese. Excellent!

2010 Walla Walla Valley Merlot (about $29) – Beautiful red berry and Rainier cherry flavors develop into darker fruits of plum and black currant as the wine progresses. Melt-in-your-mouth tannins give this wine an air of sophistication and will make you glad you’re a Washington merlot drinker.

2010 Columbia Valley Malbec (about $30) – Big, rugged and inky, this wine displays nuances of espresso and leather for starters and then more black olive and blackberry fruits as it opens up. Dense and compact, this is one powerful malbec.

2009 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (about $37) – Aromatics of cigar box and burnt toast are followed by seamless layers of black cherry, chocolate truffle, rum raisin and fig. The relatively plush finish is capped with a sprinkle of white pepper and allspice.

You’ll find Walla Walla Vintners wines at Purple Smile Wines in Bellingham and Compass Wines in Anacortes. They are also available for purchase on line at wallawallavintners.com.

Despite a few downturns on the global scale, syrah continues to hold its own as a solid wine grape in Washington.

While consumers have gradually moved away from a flood of overripe, fruit-bomb Australian shirazes (the equivalent of our syrah) over the past several years, Washington continues to quietly carve out a niche of its own among syrah drinkers.

It’s still a relatively new grape here, and it really wasn’t much of a player in the state’s red wine market until the late 1990’s to early 2000’s.

But in just the last five years, syrah has accounted for anywhere from about 12 to 16 percent of all red varieties produced in the state. That places it only behind cabernet sauvignon and merlot in Washington red wine production, according to the USDA.

Here are some recommendations of several Washington syrahs I think you might enjoy:

Two Mountain Winery 2009 Syrah (about $25) – This Matt Rawn syrah from the Yakima Valley rocked my world with opening flavors of red currant that melt into darker cherry fruits and a hint of smoky spice. There’s also an underlying layer of acidity, a touch of minerality and gentle tannins for perfect balance.

Stephenson Cellars 2008 Columbia Valley Syrah (about $30) – Winemaker David Stephenson continues his mastery of the varietal with a syrah long on black plum flavors plus touches of blackberry, blueberry and sweet cedar. A gentle splash of acidity and supple tannins provide just the right amount of lift and structure. Excellent!

Terra Blanca Winery 2008 Arch Terrace Syrah (about $15) and 2007 Signature Series Block 8 Syrah (pictured at left, about $42) – These two syrahs have been beautifully crafted by winemaker Keith Pilgrim in more of Northern Rhone style and were sourced from his estate vineyards in the Red Mountain Appellation.

The Arch Terrace is the leaner of the two, with bright red cherry and huckleberry flavors; while the Block 8 is a bit bigger and darker with a nice earthy quality, reserved red plum and fig and a spritz of smoky black pepper. Both wines make excellent food-pairing partners with roast beef, pork sausage, lamb or a hearty beef stew.

Dynasty Cellars 2008 DCS Syrah (about $38) – Bellingham winemaker Peter Osvaldik scores yet again with this incredible syrah sourced from Walla Walla’s Les Collines Vineyard. Rich and layered, it’s brimming with flavors of ultra-dark cherry and espresso, while the lengthy finish suggests toasted oak and a whisper of seductive smokiness.

It’s seems a bit odd to have a wine column on December 25, but rest assured I was prepared far enough in advance to avoid writing it on Christmas Eve.

Because it’s a special day for many, I think a Christmas column calls for some special wines.

Prosser’s Mercer Estates Winery currently offers a full complement of red and white wines, including several reds that I’ve really enjoyed this holiday season.

My favorites include their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $24). The tannins are a tad gritty for starters but soften nicely to reveal a lengthy, gorgeous layer of black cherry and espresso underneath.

Also notable is their 2008 Merlot (about $24) with lovely cherry and vanilla aromatics, dark berry flavors, a touch of black currant and toasted oak on the finish, and just the right amount of tannins in the background for added character and depth. This wine really is the complete package for merlot drinkers.

Another real treat is the 2009 Anthem (about $40), a Bordeaux blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petit verdot. This full-bodied red is perfectly balanced, with a bouquet of vanilla and butterscotch, understated blackberry flavors and a slightly plush, yet structured finish.

Winemaker Chris Gorman from Gorman Winery in Woodinville has been earning acclaim for his red wines as well. In a word: they’re BIG!

His 2009 Zachary’s Ladder (about $30) is a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. Compact blackberry and black currant converge with chewy red cherry flavors, chalky tannins and a touch of white pepper and rose hips on a lingering finish.

Gorman’s 2009 Evil Twin (about $65), is a super-splurge, 95-point Wine Spectator choice. This 70/30 combination of syrah and cabernet sauvignon explodes with robust aromatics of dried cherry and ripe plum. It’s quite dense and I’d give it at least a good two hours of decanting before serving. The payoff: intense notes of black cherry and bittersweet chocolate that are perfect for balancing out the wine’s monstrous 15.2-percent alcohol content.

Look for these wines at Purple Smile Wines in Fairhaven or order them online at the winery’s web site.

Finally, for a change of pace, try the J Vineyards & Winery 2005 Vintage Brut (about $49). This Russian River Valley sparkler has all the components of classic Champagne, with textured layers of baked bread, toasted hazelnut and lemon chiffon, and a crisp finish of Granny Smith apple.

It’s red wine month, a self-proclaimed title I’ve given to December. Why? Because it’s a great time to hunker down as we get ready for another cold, gray winter and warm up with a nice glass or bottle of red wine.

Today I’ll give you a few more recommendations from Oregon and Washington wineries and next week we’ll take a look at some “splurge” red wines as we approach New Year’s Eve.

If you’re talking Oregon red, then you’re talking pinot noir. And the Willamette Valley is about as good as it gets domestically for this much sought-after varietal that’s been called everything from finicky to voluptuous.

The Willamette Valley Vineyards 2011 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir (about $22) is a good example of a pinot noir that won’t break the bank while still showing plenty of character.

2011 was not a particularly good year for Oregon wine grapes because of cooler and wetter than normal conditions. But this wine offers layers of cranberry, raspberry, a trace of black cherry and surprisingly mile acidity along with a whisper of smokiness on the finish. It’s an excellent choice with a salmon or duck entrée.

And who says Oregon can’t make a decent red wine other than pinot noir? Try the A to Z Wineworks 2008 Night and Day (about $15), a blend of syrah, merlot and three other red varietals. Plenty of lovely dark berry aromatics lead off, with complex flavors of dark fruits, anise, currant, dried herbs and a dusting of tannins on a slightly earthy finish.

Another red blend, this one from Washington, really impressed me during a recent tasting. Beautifully crafted by winemaker Victor Cruz, the Cañon del Sol Winery 2009 Red Wine (about $21) combines 65-percent syrah, 25-percent merlot and 10-percent cabernet franc. There’s a whiff of caramel on the nose, black plum and mocha flavors on the palate and a gentle swirl of crème brȗlée and butterscotch on a lengthy finish.

Finally, be sure to include Washington malbec on your list of red wines to try. A case in point of this up-and-coming varietal is the Seven Hills Winery 2009 Malbec (about $25) from Walla Walla.

This wine brings to mind wild blackberries; not the plump, ubiquitous roadside variety, but those harder-to-find petite, wild field blackberries. Add to this a faint trace of orange citrus on the finish for a bit of lift and you’ve got another outstanding effort from winemaker Casey McClellan.

I’m officially declaring December to be “red wine month.”

With winter on the horizon and the prospect of even colder weather ahead, December just seems like the perfect time to enjoy a glass of red wine.

I’m not saying you should abandon all plans to serve a chilled white wine this month. But if you think about yourself with a good book, a warm fire or a bowl of hearty stew, a glass or bottle of robust, flavorful red wine could be just thing to complete the picture and take the edge off a cold winter’s day.

Today I’ll start you off with a few red wine recommendations from local wineries, and during the next several weeks offer plenty of other suggestions from Washington, Oregon and California.

San Juan Vineyards has a couple of big, bold reds among its current releases. Try the 2009 Red Wine (about $14), a well-priced blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. It’s dark and brooding with compact flavors of espresso, black currant and dark plum and it begs for a pairing of pepper-encrusted beef.

Another candidate for a beef entrée is their 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $19). Aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry and touch of anise lead off, followed by a nicely structured, slightly woodsy finish.

Bellingham’s Dynasty Cellars has a trio of truly remarkable red wines that are running in short supply but still available and highly recommended.

The 2008 DC3 Meritage (about $25) is loaded with intense dark berry flavors and hints of baking spice that melt into a pliable finish with nuances of black olive and toasted oak.

Powerful, yet gorgeous, the 2008 DCC Les Collines Cabernet (about $33) displays dark, inky overtones of black cherry and coffee followed with a lovely bit of milk chocolate on the finish and flawless tannins.

And the 2008 DCQ Red Wine (about $35) is a four-varietal red blend that includes cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc and zinfandel. This is another dense wine with chalky tannins that’s perfect for the cellar or enjoyable now with venison or lamb.

Finally, be sure to try the Dakota Creek Winery 2009 Petit Verdot (about $35) with beautiful flavors of black plum and dark berry that melt into a big, round finish with just enough texture to remind you that you’re drinking petit verdot.

This limited-supply wine, along with the 2009 Petit Sirah, will be featured at the winery’s Christmas Open House celebration in Blaine on December 7, 8 and 9.