Thurston Wolfe Releases Full Slate of Quality 2012 Vintage Reds

March 17th, 2015

Many of Washington’s 2012 vintage red wines are currently in release or just starting to hit the market. After the challenging, cooler-than-usual 2010 and 2011 vintages, winemakers had a much more “normal” year with 2012. For consumers, the reward has been some truly stellar, full-bodied and flavorful red wines.

Nowhere is this more evident than with Thurston Wolfe winery in Prosser, where owner/winemaker Dr. Wade Wolfe has produced terrific, reliable wines for over 25 years. And even though Wolfe’s 2010 and 2011 vintages hit the mark in terms of consistently high quality, his 2012’s are even better.

nullI recently tasted through a number of the winery’s recently or soon-to-be released reds and thought they were excellent choices across the board. Here are my tasting notes:

2012 D.R. Wolfe’s Family Red (about $16) – Lovely vanilla bean fragrance for starters, jammy blackberry and black currant flavors, and a spicy, brambly finish with a hint of Rainier cherry highlight this blend of petite sirah, zinfandel, lemberger and syrah.

2012 Howling Wolfe Zinfandel (about $20) – This nicely complex zin features a nose of brioche and rum raisin, some peppery notes up front and then a layer of cherry wrapped in a blanket of chocolaty caramel. This well-priced wine could easily be the standard by which all Washington zinfandels for this vintage are measured.

2012 The Spaniard (about $20) – This red blend is the combination of three varietals: grenache provides bright raspberry and red currant flavors; tempranillo contributes gentle tannins and texture; and syrah adds some smoky, spicy notes. The underlying finish of lightly-herbed bittersweet chocolate makes it a tasty, multi-faceted and complete wine.

2012 Petite Sirah (about $20) – This ever-evolving, powerful red opens with enticing sweet cedar and caramel aromatics followed by black plum and blackberry flavors and a slightly grippy finish suggesting smoky lardo with a touch of espresso. It pairs perfectly with barbeque pork or beef ribs.

2012 Malbec (about $30) – Spicy blackberry and blueberry aromas and flavors are complemented with additional fruits of black currant and dried cherry on the palate. It’s compact, dense and well-structured with a pleasant, somewhat meaty finish.

2012 Reserve Zinfandel (about $30) – This exquisitely crafted zin displays all the components of a perfectly balanced wine: candied cherry aromatics, a splash of bright acidity, soft black cherry fruit, and a finish capped with subtle black pepper, toasted oak, and faintly chalky tannins. Outstanding!

2010 The Geologist Bordeaux Blend (about $50) – I realize this is from the 2010 vintage, but this just-released combination of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec bears mentioning. The wine’s aromas of butterscotch and freshly brewed coffee lead into reserved, dark berry fruits and a lengthy finish with vanilla accents. It’s heady, yet elegant and should not be missed.

Washington Producing Some Superb Rhone Valley Varietals

March 10th, 2015

Last month I covered several of the more popular Rhône varietals that have found their way into Washington vineyards. Since then, I’ve been on a self-imposed mission to search out, taste, and come up with some specific recommendations of wines produced from these varietals that I think you’ll enjoy.

The only problem I encountered: narrowing down the list of superb wines I tasted in an effort to give you the best of the best.

nullTo refresh your memory, a Rhône varietal is one of 22 grapes sanctioned by the French government for wine production within that country’s Rhône Valley. Of these, the top six varietals now grown in Washington are syrah, viognier, grenache, roussanne, marsanne, and mourvèdre.

Corvidae Wine Company Lenore 2011 Syrah (about $16) – Gorgeous, black cherry flavors stand out with undertones of gamey meats and subtle, sultry spices on a silky-soft finish. This over-achieving, entry-level selection from Owen Roe Winery delivers from start to finish and is a classic example of excellent winemaking during a challenging vintage year. The 2012 vintage of this wine is now also currently available.

Cougar Crest Estate Winery 2013 Viognier (about $22) – Sourced from Walla Walla Valley estate vineyards, this wine’s big aromatics of lemon and key lime are matched with honeydew melon flavors and bold tropical fruits of mango, papaya and pineapple. The finish is slightly plump with a borderline-sweet trailing note.

Maryhill Winery 2009 Syrah (about $22) – This older vintage syrah is still available and drinking beautifully. Honey-graham and vanilla bean aromas, a mouthful of dark cherry fruits on the mid-palate, and a lengthy finish with accents of caramel and black licorice highlight this fine effort.

nullLookout Point Winery 2011 Grenache (about $24) – There’s a nice fleshy quality to this wine, while at the same time brighter strawberry, red currant and pomegranate flavors come through on the finish along with a spritz of white pepper.

Keep your eye on winemaker George Petzinger, who’s really hitting his stride with this micro-boutique winery that operates from a cozy tasting room in downtown Yakima.

Forgeron Cellars 2013 Façon Blanc (about $25) – This tasty blend of four white Rhône varietals – roussanne, grenache blanc, viognier, and marsanne – is filled with mouth-watering white peach and apricot flavors that transition into crisp, vibrant citrus while still maintaining a full-bodied quality. Another stunning effort from Walla Walla winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla.

Maryhill Winery 2011 Marvel ~ GSM (about $40) – What more can one say about this highly-decorated wine that was Great Northwest Wine’s 2014 Wine of the Year? Grenache, syrah and mourvèdre converge in this red blend with smoky, pepper bacon on the nose, understated mincemeat and fig flavors and, when decanted for several hours, a soft, chocolaty finish. Truly a phenomenal wine worth savoring.

Buying Local? Northwest Washington Wineries Have You Covered

February 24th, 2015

If you prefer your food and beverages produced closer to home, our regional and local-area wineries have plenty to offer.

Whatcom, Skagit, Island, and San Juan counties boast many award-winning wineries that source their grapes from either estate vineyards or those located in Eastern Washington. These grapes are made into wines at local production facilities and available for purchase primarily in area tasting rooms, grocers, wine shops.

For starters, consider Silver Bell Winery in LaConner, where husband and wife owners/ winemakers Alan and Diane Holtzheimer have established a must-visit tasting room.

Newly-released selections include their 2012 Merlot (about $29), sourced from Copeland Vineyards near Zillah. This wine has a lovely, almost perfume-like air about it, with brambly berry aromatics and flavors, a sprinkle of crushed herbs, and a gentle splash of acidity. The finish has plenty of grip and a touch of toasted oak.

Also notable is the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $34), with an intriguing bouquet of spice box, violets, and field berries. The Red Mountain Appellation fruit really shines through with its understated currant and blackberry flavors and a streak of minerality. Potentially ideal food pairings include burgers, steak or roast beef.

nullWinemaker Chris Primus (pictured at left) of San Juan Vineyards in Friday Harbor has really come into his own the past few years. Case in point: his 2013 Siegerrebe received five unanimous double golds from five different sets of judges. The wine has already sold out, but the 2014 vintage is scheduled for bottling in April.

Primus has also skillfully crafted several other wines including a trio of just-released reds:

2011 Cabernet-Merlot (about $19, currently on sale for $14) – This blend of cab franc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon features distinctive anise aromatics, gorgeous plum fruit, and accents of white pepper and vanilla bean. It’s instantly enjoyable at a steal of a price.

2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $19) – There’s a bit of an herbal note on the nose accompanied by savory cherry tomato to start. As the wine opens, more of the dark, black plum and berry fruit comes through with firm tannins on the finish. An excellent wine to pair with beef tenderloin.

2011 Cabernet Franc (about $27) – Red fruits of cherry, currant and cranberry lead off with an underlying whisper of smoky/earthy coffee bean. It’s perfectly balanced with a near-elegant quality that makes it a pleasure to taste.

A final note: the newly opened Safeway store on Sunset Drive in Bellingham has generously dedicated a floor display and aisle end-cap to exclusively promote six Whatcom County wineries: Dakota Creek Winery, Dynasty Cellars, GLM Wine Co., Legoe Bay Winery, Masquerade Wine Co., and Vartanyan Estate Winery. For those who like to support the locals, it’s a one-stop shopping opportunity worth checking out.

Maryhill Evolves Into More Than Just a Destination Winery

February 3rd, 2015

There’s a lot to like about Maryhill Winery: a tasting room facility on the Columbia Gorge with some of the most spectacular views of any winery I’ve visited; an on-site, 4,000-seat amphitheater for outdoor concerts; and a huge portfolio of wines that’s certain to satisfy virtually any taste preference or budget.

In 2007 I wrote, “Warning: wines from Maryhill Winery are not for the faint of heart. (They’re) big and bold with complex, massive fruit flavors…”

Things have certainly changed since then. The Maryhill wines I recently tasted seemed to place much less emphasis on the high fruit and alcohol content. The result: wines that display superior balance, more character, and far better food-pairing capability.

nullIt’s probably no mystery that this evolution of Maryhill wines coincides with the hiring of Richard Batchelor as winemaker.

Originally from New Zealand, Batchelor came on board with Maryhill in 2009, and the number of awards his wines have earned since that time is staggering…including seven platinums at Wine Press Northwest magazine’s Best of the Best in the Pacific Northwest Competition last year.

Today’s recommendations include several choices nicely priced in the under-$20-a-bottle category. These wines are well distributed and easy to find in local grocers and wine shops, including Seifert & Jones Wine Merchants in Bellingham.

2012 Winemaker’s White (about $11) – This tasty blend of chardonnay, viognier, semillon, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc has just the right balance between viscous and crispness with flavors of granny smith apple, pear, and lemon tart. Prefer red blends instead? A 2012 Winemaker’s Red is also currently available for about $15.

2013 Rosé of Sangiovese (about $11) – Batchelor hits a grand slam with this pretty-in-pink, gem of a wine. Wild strawberry aromatics and flavors fill the glass from start to finish, with a closing note of red currant and beautiful, bracing acidity. Outstanding!

2013 Viognier (about $13) – Flavor profile-wise, there’s a bit of a throwback to the Maryhill of old with this full-bodied white wine. Toasted marshmallow on the nose, a mouthful of tropical fruit and baked apple flavors and a creamy texture with great mouthfeel all add up to this somewhat guilty pleasure.

2009 Zinfandel (about $18) – Spicy aromas and tastes predominate, with understated flavors of raspberry and crabapple and a faintly peppery finish. With the fruit, alcohol and acidity in check, this makes an excellent red to serve with roast beef or pork tenderloin.

2011 Sangiovese (about $18) – Lovely caramel and red cherry aromas start you off along with a hint of smokiness that carries through to the palate. Pie cherry, pomegranate and cranberry flavors are perfectly balanced with nice acidity and salmon or duck come to mind as food-pairing options.

Washington Wines: Big on Quality and Variety

January 27th, 2015

Last week I ventured outside the state to feature several international wine recommendations for you to consider. Today we return to Washington, with a number of terrific wines that are equally certain to please.

As I tasted these wines, it struck me how diverse Washington has become in the number of varietals we now produce.

The key to all of this is our climate in the eastern half of the state, where nearly all of our wine grapes are grown.

Long summer days, abundant sunshine, and cool autumn evenings that allow the grapes to maintain high acidity levels with extended hang times all play a part in why we do wines so well in this part of the world.

For today’s column, there’s no particular regional or varietal theme, just more recommendations that showcase a few of the increasingly varied choices that wine enthusiasts have when considering Washington wines.

L’Ecole No. 41 2013 Semillon (about $15) – This is one of my favorite white varietals, and although it can be difficult to find, winemaker Marty Clubb has, thankfully, been making it for as long as I can remember. The wine’s nicely reserved layer of pineapple and tropical fruit is also underscored with stone fruit, lemon chiffon and floral accents. An excellent wine at an incredibly reasonable price.

Otis Kenyon 2013 Riesling (about $18) – Up until a few years ago, this Walla Walla winery only made red wines; but they’ve expanded their current releases to include this refreshing white. Racy, vibrant flavors of lemon and lime zest are capped by a clean, bone-dry finish. It’s quite possibly the perfect wine to pair with oysters on the half-shell.

nullFoxy Roxy Wines 2008 Vixen Red (about $22) – A gorgeous Bordeaux blend of estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and carménerè, this opulent red is brimming with cola, black cherry and blackberry fruit that melt into a plush, lengthy finish. The winery is located in the middle of nowhere between the towns of Royal City and Othello, but the wines, fortunately, can be purchased on line.

Rulo Winery 2013 Sundance Chardonnay (about $25) – Honeysuckle, sweet pea and clover aromatics lead to generous flavors of Macintosh apple and green melon. The finish is textured with a slightly crisp trailing note. Another stunning wine from Kurt and Vicki Schlicker, who continue to do a remarkable job at their Walla Walla winery.

Coach House Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $30) – Produced by Bellingham winemakers Scott Whitman and Paxton Rembert, this current release doesn’t have quite the power and depth of their 2010 cab, but it’s still a fine effort. Black plum, roasted coffee, some nice acidity and supple tannins combine in a well-balanced red that can be enjoyed now or cellared three to five years for future enjoyment.

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