At Walla Walla Vintners the Focus is on Red Wines
I first visited Walla Walla Vintners in the mid-1990’s when only a handful of wineries existed in this now storied Washington wine region.
I recall meeting with winemaker Gordy Venneri and tasting some blockbuster red wines that were worthy of comparison to nearby Leonetti Cellar.
Little has changed since then except for the fact that things have gotten even better. Walla Walla Vintners still focuses only on red wines, and it’s a strategy that has worked well over the years. The winery has earned a reputation – and the accolades to go with it – for producing some of biggest and finest red wines in the Walla Walla area.
In today’s market, where some wineries stretch themselves thin with dozens of varietals, it’s refreshing to find that Venneri and winemaking partner Myles Anderson have chosen to concentrate on what they do best. Their small number of reds isn’t formulaic and reflects the quality of attention-to-detail winemaking.
Today’s reviewed wines are thoroughly enjoyable with ample aeration, but I think they’ll benefit even more with a little cellaring time. Simply put, these are the types of red wines that tell you slow down, relax, and savor each sip.
Here are my tasting notes on a few of the winery’s current releases:
2011 Columbia Valley Sangiovese (about $25) – Dark blueberry flavors lead off, with more of a brighter red currant edginess as the acidity gradually makes its way through. The transition is smooth, and faint finishing notes of vanilla bean and caramel result in an almost “elegant” sangiovese. Excellent!
2010 Walla Walla Valley Merlot (about $29) – Beautiful red berry and Rainier cherry flavors develop into darker fruits of plum and black currant as the wine progresses. Melt-in-your-mouth tannins give this wine an air of sophistication and will make you glad you’re a Washington merlot drinker.
2010 Columbia Valley Malbec (about $30) – Big, rugged and inky, this wine displays nuances of espresso and leather for starters and then more black olive and blackberry fruits as it opens up. Dense and compact, this is one powerful malbec.
2009 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (about $37) – Aromatics of cigar box and burnt toast are followed by seamless layers of black cherry, chocolate truffle, rum raisin and fig. The relatively plush finish is capped with a sprinkle of white pepper and allspice.
You’ll find Walla Walla Vintners wines at Purple Smile Wines in Bellingham and Compass Wines in Anacortes. They are also available for purchase on line at wallawallavintners.com.
Husband and wife winemaker/owners Ken and Jill Peck have carved out a niche among Whatcom County wine enthusiasts by producing solid wines sourced from Eastern Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills Appellation.
A final note: Eight other Whatcom County wineries will join Dakota Creek by participating in Spring Release Weekend from May 10 to 12. They include Dynasty Cellars, GLM Wine Company, Inyo Winery, Masquerade Wine Company, Mount Baker Vineyards, Samson Estates, Vartanyan Estate Winery, and Willow Tree Vineyard. Check with each winery for its scheduled new wines and special events.
Gamache Vintners 2012 Estate Riesling (about $18) – This is one of the first white wines I’ve tried from Washington’s promising 2012 vintage. It’s a lovely wine, with generous tropical fruit flavors, brisk acidity and a noticeable splash of residual sugar that should pair perfectly with spicy cuisine.
Second, the 2010 red wines are in full-swing release right now, and all the wines I tried from this vintage are drinking wonderfully. Because it was a cooler growing year, 2010 is a different animal than vintages past, with more compact, understated fruits, great acidity levels and excellent food-pairing potential.
It almost goes without saying that all the wines I tried were incredible, but there were a handful of personal favorites that really stood out.