At Walla Walla Vintners the Focus is on Red Wines

May 7th, 2013

I first visited Walla Walla Vintners in the mid-1990’s when only a handful of wineries existed in this now storied Washington wine region.

I recall meeting with winemaker Gordy Venneri and tasting some blockbuster red wines that were worthy of comparison to nearby Leonetti Cellar.

nullLittle has changed since then except for the fact that things have gotten even better. Walla Walla Vintners still focuses only on red wines, and it’s a strategy that has worked well over the years. The winery has earned a reputation – and the accolades to go with it – for producing some of biggest and finest red wines in the Walla Walla area.

In today’s market, where some wineries stretch themselves thin with dozens of varietals, it’s refreshing to find that Venneri and winemaking partner Myles Anderson have chosen to concentrate on what they do best. Their small number of reds isn’t formulaic and reflects the quality of attention-to-detail winemaking.

Today’s reviewed wines are thoroughly enjoyable with ample aeration, but I think they’ll benefit even more with a little cellaring time. Simply put, these are the types of red wines that tell you slow down, relax, and savor each sip.

Here are my tasting notes on a few of the winery’s current releases:

2011 Columbia Valley Sangiovese (about $25) – Dark blueberry flavors lead off, with more of a brighter red currant edginess as the acidity gradually makes its way through. The transition is smooth, and faint finishing notes of vanilla bean and caramel result in an almost “elegant” sangiovese. Excellent!

2010 Walla Walla Valley Merlot (about $29) – Beautiful red berry and Rainier cherry flavors develop into darker fruits of plum and black currant as the wine progresses. Melt-in-your-mouth tannins give this wine an air of sophistication and will make you glad you’re a Washington merlot drinker.

2010 Columbia Valley Malbec (about $30) – Big, rugged and inky, this wine displays nuances of espresso and leather for starters and then more black olive and blackberry fruits as it opens up. Dense and compact, this is one powerful malbec.

2009 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (about $37) – Aromatics of cigar box and burnt toast are followed by seamless layers of black cherry, chocolate truffle, rum raisin and fig. The relatively plush finish is capped with a sprinkle of white pepper and allspice.

You’ll find Walla Walla Vintners wines at Purple Smile Wines in Bellingham and Compass Wines in Anacortes. They are also available for purchase on line at wallawallavintners.com.

Dakota Creek’s New Releases May Be the Best Yet

April 30th, 2013

I’ve followed the evolution of Dakota Creek Winery in Blaine almost since day one and it’s been a most rewarding experience.

nullHusband and wife winemaker/owners Ken and Jill Peck have carved out a niche among Whatcom County wine enthusiasts by producing solid wines sourced from Eastern Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills Appellation.

Their fan base appears to be a most loyal group, demonstrated by a near-full tasting room and outdoor seating area during my most recent weekend visit.

Of course, having a sun-splashed afternoon and tastes of blissful chocolates from Bellingham’s Evolve Truffles on hand didn’t hurt, but it’s the wines that keep bringing people back. And after sampling a number of Dakota Creek’s upcoming new releases I think it’s safe to say that these could be some of the best wines the Pecks have produced.

Here’s a sneak peak of what to expect when these wines become available to the general public during the winery’s Spring Release event on Mother’s Day weekend:

A 2010 Viognier (about $20) is the winery’s sole white wine new release, displaying gentle peach aromatics and flavors along with a trace of licorice root and hazelnut on the finish.

The four new red wines slated for release include the 2010 Dolcetto (about $22), with a fragrant nose that I thought resembled Jolly Rancher Fire Stix. On the palate, there’s some nice, bright strawberry and cherry tomato flavors with a touch of herbaceousness.

A 2010 Malbec (about $24) is one of those wines that gets better with every sip. Understated brambly berries lead off, while a spritz of black pepper and underlying layer of toasted oak come through on the finish.

A bit unconventional in that it leans towards the fruity, rather than the meaty, tannic side, the 2010 Petit Verdot (about $24) still displays plenty of heft between the black cherry aromas and flavors that predominate. A pleasant whisper of orange zest rounds out the package.

Drinking beautifully now, the syrah-based, four varietal 2010 Jill’s Blend (about $25) begins on an almost buttery, velvety note with dark berry and cherry flavors. Brighter red currant and pomegranate follow, along with a dusting of chalky tannins.

nullA final note: Eight other Whatcom County wineries will join Dakota Creek by participating in Spring Release Weekend from May 10 to 12. They include Dynasty Cellars, GLM Wine Company, Inyo Winery, Masquerade Wine Company, Mount Baker Vineyards, Samson Estates, Vartanyan Estate Winery, and Willow Tree Vineyard. Check with each winery for its scheduled new wines and special events.

More Recommendations From Taste Washington

April 16th, 2013

Last month’s Taste Washington event in Seattle proved to be a food and wine lover’s dream, as over one-fourth of the state’s nearly 800 wineries and scores of regional restaurants were assembled under one roof.

One of the things I enjoy about this event is that there is no judging, no competition or no lengthy list of awards to be given. That makes it a refreshing alternative to wine tasting events that are occasionally bogged down with ceremonies or, worse yet, tasters clamoring to line up for a medal winner.

In its simplest – albeit supersized – form, this is indeed a wine festival, providing the wine-tasting public with an excellent opportunity to sample what Washington wineries do best.

Last week I gave you my favorites among the wines I sampled and this week I’d like to add a few more recommendations for you to consider.

Apex Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (about $15) – There’s a bright, fragrant note of grapefruit and lemongrass on the nose that follows through to the palate along with hints of dried herb. Bright acidity and minerality on the finish make this a prime candidate for fresh clams or oysters.

nullGamache Vintners 2012 Estate Riesling (about $18) – This is one of the first white wines I’ve tried from Washington’s promising 2012 vintage. It’s a lovely wine, with generous tropical fruit flavors, brisk acidity and a noticeable splash of residual sugar that should pair perfectly with spicy cuisine.

Otis Kenyon 2009 Merlot (about $30) – Winemaker Dave Stephenson hits another one out of the park with this not-for-the-faint-of-heart Washington merlot. Black currant, roasted coffee and perhaps even a whiff of smoky bacon lead off, with a finish of subtle spices, toast and vanilla bean. If there is such a thing as a breakfast wine, this could be it.

Ott & Murphy Wines 2009 Petit Sirah (about $45) – This is another big, red wine sourced from the Horse Heaven Hills Appellation and produced in Langley on Whidbey Island. It features dark berry fruits, plenty of dense, chewy tannins and notes of cocoa and caramel on the finish.

Hightower Cellars 2009 Red Mountain Red Wine (about $55) – Washington has come a long way with red wine blends, but should you be paying this much? Absolutely! This is an intense, dark, powerhouse wine that’s drinking nicely and should continue to age gracefully with additional cellaring time. Black cherry, fig, and nuances of bittersweet chocolate and cedar highlight this stunning Bordeaux blend.

Here Are My “Best of the Best” From This Year’s Taste Washington

April 9th, 2013

Taste Washington, which touts itself as the “nation’s largest single-region wine and food event” took place at Century Link Field Event Center in Seattle on March 23 and 24.

I was able to attend the first day’s four-hour tasting session, which featured about 225 Washington wineries and 60 restaurants in what some might describe as our state’s version of organized food and wine overload.

Between the noshing, schmoozing and hobnobbing with as many wine industry people I could manage, I also made plenty of mental notes on wines that I saw and tasted.

First, a request of the wineries: please bring a white wine if you make one. My goal was to spend the first hour or so sampling whites and then switch to reds, but after discovering that many wineries were only pouring red wines, I simply gave up. Most wine enthusiasts, including me, like a little variety among their varietals and it would have been nice to see more at this event.

nullSecond, the 2010 red wines are in full-swing release right now, and all the wines I tried from this vintage are drinking wonderfully. Because it was a cooler growing year, 2010 is a different animal than vintages past, with more compact, understated fruits, great acidity levels and excellent food-pairing potential.

Keeping in mind there were hundreds of wines I wasn’t able to taste, here are my personal “best of the best” choices:

Best white wine: Forgeron Cellars 2011 Chardonnay (about $27) – Winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla has crafted an exquisite chardonnay with Fuji apple, pear and citrus flavors that shine with a scant blending of orange muscat. There’s also a lingering creamy note with a hint of brioche on the finish.

Best rosé: Treveri Cellars Non-Vintage Sec Rosé (about $18) – I know I’m beginning to sound like a broken record, but winemaker Juergen Grieb has produced yet another stunning, affordable wine with this sparkling rosé. Tangy strawberry and bright citrus flavors combine with perfectly balanced sweetness to create this must-try, coral-hued sparkler.

Best red wine: Gilbert Cellars 2010 Left Bank (pictured above, about $20) – How winemaker Justin Neufeld was able to create this Bordeaux-blend masterpiece and get it out the door for $20 is beyond me. Intense floral aromatics may tempt you to dab it on for cologne, and the reserved dark fruits are capped with nuances of vanilla and toasted oak. Hands down, the best red wine I tasted at this price point.

Next week: more recommendations from Taste Washington.

Anacortes Wine Event Features Many of Washington’s Best

April 2nd, 2013

I had a great opportunity to taste some amazing Washington wines at an event in Anacortes on March 16.

Compass Wines co-owner Doug Charles orchestrated the event, which benefitted the College of Veterinary Medicine and Wine Business Management Programs at Washington State University.

Charles must have finagled, begged, cajoled and bribed (just kidding, of course) the sixteen wineries in attendance, because they truly represented the crème de la crème of Washington.

The tasting card included: Andrew Will, Bunchgrass, Cougar Crest, ded.reckoning, Doubleback, Figgins, Hightower, L’Ecole No. 41, Leonetti, Lullaby, Merry Cellars, Rulo, Seven Hills, Walla Walla Vintners, Whitestone, and Woodward Canyon.

How’s that for an impressive line-up?

With the small number of wineries to peruse (versus the astronomical 225 at last month’s Taste Washington) the afternoon event proved to be leisurely and enjoyable with ample time to chat with winemakers and winery representatives.

nullIt almost goes without saying that all the wines I tried were incredible, but there were a handful of personal favorites that really stood out.

Hightower Cellars Riley Pi 2010 Cabernet Franc (about $20) – Here’s a classic, true-to-the-varietal cabernet franc from Tim and Kelly Hightower that might make you think you’re drinking something twice-the-price from Loire or Bordeaux. Subtle flavors of sun-dried cherry, black olive, herbs and white pepper make it an ideal candidate for prime rib.

Lullaby 2011 Blanc de Virginie (pictured above, about $23) – Reminiscent of a fine Sancerre, this sauvignon blanc from Walla Walla winemaker Virginie Bourque is undeniably one of the finest Washington white wines I’ve tasted…ever. Dazzling, steely acidity shines from the tropical pineapple and lemon zest flavors, with a trailing note of rounder stone fruits that linger endlessly on the tongue. Exceptional!

Rulo Winery Non-Vintage WCF Red (about $25) – Kurt and Vicki Schlicker have crafted a gem of a red wine at an insanely low price that demands a case purchase. Blended from their 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 Syrah, it opens with a highly intoxicating aroma of violets, sweet cedar and dark fruits while flavors of black plum and berries explode on the palate along with a touch of toasted vanilla and integrated tannins.

Doubleback 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $100) – Proprietor and former WSU quarterback Drew Bledsoe and winemaker Chris Figgins team up to produce an unforgettable wine at a mind-numbing price that makes me wish I had more disposable income. Opulent and rich, with intense black cherry and cassis flavors and a finish, despite its youth, that’s surprisingly velvety.

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