Red Wines Dominate 2015 Taste Washington Event in Seattle

April 7th, 2015

Two weeks ago, I told you about Taste Washington, the largest single-region food and wine event in the United States.

I attended the Grand Tasting in Seattle on March 28; a showcase that featured an amazing 234 Washington wineries or about one-fourth of the state’s total.

Informative? Yes. Fun? Absolutely. Excessive? Well…I suppose that depends on your point of view.

nullWith nearly 700 wines on hand and only four hours of tasting time available, let’s just say it paid to be selective about the wines that were sampled.

Normally, my strategy is to split my time about 50/50: first half for white wines, second half for reds. But with whites only comprising about 20-percent of the total, I adjusted my tasting accordingly to allow for this year’s heavily skewed red wine program.

Not surprisingly, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, and pinot gris dominated the whites. There were fewer choices of viognier as a stand-alone varietal, but more options with it offered as a Rhône blend – usually with roussanne and marsanne – a pleasant trend that seems to be gaining momentum. Also, thankfully, there was a bit of semillon and chenin blanc on hand, along with a relative newcomer to Washington vineyards, albariño.

On the red side, it seemed as if nearly everyone was pouring a Bordeaux or Rhône red blend, with plenty of Washington’s top four red varietals, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, and cabernet franc leading the way.

Well represented second-tier reds included malbec, sangiovese, and grenache. And I love that even some of the state’s more obscure red varietals such as tempranillo, nebbiolo, barbera, carménère, mourvèdre, and primitivo can now be found at these events. It’s this kind of diversity that helps solidify Washington’s increasing presence as a viable choice for wine consumers.

In terms of vintages, the new releases at the tasting consisted primarily of 2013s and a few 2014s for the whites and 2012s for the reds.

Because 2013 and 2014 were warm growing years in Washington, you can expect more full-bodied, fruit-forward white wines, especially when compared to the cooler 2010 and 2011 vintages. I’m a bit concerned that some winemakers might be tempted to be a little heavy-handed with the fruit and alcohol components of their whites, and caution you to watch for this as these wines hit the market.

The 2012 reds, on the other hand, are tasting absolutely gorgeous. Well-balanced wines with fruit, acidity levels and tannins in perfect harmony are the order of the day and this vintage will only continue to get better as you accumulate these wines for your cellar.

In two weeks: A list of specific recommendations from this year’s Taste Washington.

Simply Prepared Salmon Pairs Nicely With Wines High in Acidity

March 31st, 2015

Fresh Pacific Northwest salmon is one of those foods I can’t get enough of.

I was fortunate to grow up on northern Whidbey Island, where my dad was an avid recreational salmon fisherman who frequented its surrounding waters with great success.

I can recall many a Sunday, when an early afternoon dinner was centered around his barrel-cooked, alder wood smoked salmon…sometimes caught just the day before.

nullThe salmon was prepared simply: butter, salt, pepper and perhaps a squeeze of lemon topped the fish, which was juicy, flaky and tender, never overcooked, and perfect when served with a baked potato, green salad, and a slice of my mom’s garlic bread.

There are many other ways to prepare salmon, of course. But the focus of today’s column is to suggest a few wines that pair with this fish when it’s cooked with only a minimal amount of added ingredients; just the way my dad still prepares it today.

The key to a good wine pairing always starts with the food. Because salmon often has a rich, marbled, high-fat content, I usually select wines with a high acid content to serve with this prized Pacific Northwest seafood.

The combination works because the wine’s acidity cuts through and contrasts with the fattiness of the fish, allowing you to taste both the food and the wine. And this food/wine rule-of-thumb not only applies to salmon, it holds true for most other foods that are high in fat as well.

Whether you choose a wine that is red or white shouldn’t matter; it’s the acid level that should be your gauge. Select a wine that fits this profile – Champagne and sparkling wines, riesling, pinot gris, grenache, and pinot noir are excellent examples – and you’ll be rewarded with a virtually foolproof choice that should enhance your dining experience.

Here are a few northwest wine recommendations that work especially well with a simply prepared salmon entrée:

Gilbert Cellars 2013 Estate Riesling (about $20) – This big, viscous riesling is quite appley to start with undertones of crisp citrus and a touch of spicy lychee. The wine’s .75-percent residual sugar content gives the finish a faintly perceptible whisper of sweetness.

Maryhill Winery 2012 Proprietor’s Reserve Grenache (about $30) – There’s an Old World character to this wine with its reserved cherry, red plum, and spiced crabapple flavors. The finish suggests toasted oak, crushed herbs, and a lingering hint of earthiness.

Swiftwater Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (about $55) – Sourced from Willamette Valley grapes, this elegant, salmon-friendly wine opens with gentle, smoky cedar and caramel aromatics. Bright, red raspberry flavors melt into a soft finish with accents of anise and dried black cherry.

Taste Washington: The State’s Biggest and Best

March 24th, 2015

Get ready for the biggest – and arguably the best – food and wine tasting event in the state of Washington.

Taste Washington returns to Seattle March 26 to 29 with a number of wine-related events and seminars capped by the two-day Grand Tasting extravaganza at CenturyLink Field Events Center.

Not only is this a huge event for consumers, it’s an important showcase for Washington wineries as well. By my count, there are 234 wineries scheduled to attend and, according to people in-the-know, a fairly hefty waiting list of others anxious to get in. That number represents nearly one-quarter of all the wineries in the state and gives consumers an unparalleled opportunity to taste the best of Washington’s current releases.

The festivities kick off with two wine-and-appetizer events: the Red and White Party at El Gaucho restaurant on March 26 and The New Vintage event at the Four Seasons Hotel on March 27.

March 27 begins with three separate “Taste Washington on the Farm” day tours (one of which is already sold out) that include a luxury-transport visit to Taylor Shellfish on Samish Bay (for which limited tickets are still available).

Back in Seattle, a number of wine-themed seminars will also be held on March 28 and 29. Topics and tastes range from the state’s Red Mountain and Columbia Gorge Appellations to a “Washington vs. the World” class that will compare blind tastes from some of Washington’s finest wineries to those from France’s esteemed Bordeaux region.

Then of course, there’s the Grand Tasting event on March 28 and 29 that will feature the 200+ Washington wineries along with over 70 Puget Sound-area restaurants.

In addition to the copious amounts of food and wine, event attendees with also have the chance to view cooking demonstrations at an on-site chef’s stage and visit exhibits from an array of vendors featuring wine regions, accessories, coffees, and beers, to name a few.

If you’re feeling indecisive about the number of choices, my advice is to go with the Grand Tasting, which gives you the most food and wine exposure over a one or two-day period of your choosing.

General admission tickets get you in the door from 2 to 5 pm for $90 for a single day and $140 for both. VIP tickets are also available from 1 to 5 pm, with $160 one-day and $205 two-day options that include the extra hour of tasting, exclusive VIP lounge access and a take-home goodie bag.

To purchase tickets for these and all other events, visit tastewashington.org.

In three weeks: A rundown on several of my favorite wines along with some sage-like observations from this year’s Taste Washington.

Thurston Wolfe Releases Full Slate of Quality 2012 Vintage Reds

March 17th, 2015

Many of Washington’s 2012 vintage red wines are currently in release or just starting to hit the market. After the challenging, cooler-than-usual 2010 and 2011 vintages, winemakers had a much more “normal” year with 2012. For consumers, the reward has been some truly stellar, full-bodied and flavorful red wines.

Nowhere is this more evident than with Thurston Wolfe winery in Prosser, where owner/winemaker Dr. Wade Wolfe has produced terrific, reliable wines for over 25 years. And even though Wolfe’s 2010 and 2011 vintages hit the mark in terms of consistently high quality, his 2012’s are even better.

nullI recently tasted through a number of the winery’s recently or soon-to-be released reds and thought they were excellent choices across the board. Here are my tasting notes:

2012 D.R. Wolfe’s Family Red (about $16) – Lovely vanilla bean fragrance for starters, jammy blackberry and black currant flavors, and a spicy, brambly finish with a hint of Rainier cherry highlight this blend of petite sirah, zinfandel, lemberger and syrah.

2012 Howling Wolfe Zinfandel (about $20) – This nicely complex zin features a nose of brioche and rum raisin, some peppery notes up front and then a layer of cherry wrapped in a blanket of chocolaty caramel. This well-priced wine could easily be the standard by which all Washington zinfandels for this vintage are measured.

2012 The Spaniard (about $20) – This red blend is the combination of three varietals: grenache provides bright raspberry and red currant flavors; tempranillo contributes gentle tannins and texture; and syrah adds some smoky, spicy notes. The underlying finish of lightly-herbed bittersweet chocolate makes it a tasty, multi-faceted and complete wine.

2012 Petite Sirah (about $20) – This ever-evolving, powerful red opens with enticing sweet cedar and caramel aromatics followed by black plum and blackberry flavors and a slightly grippy finish suggesting smoky lardo with a touch of espresso. It pairs perfectly with barbeque pork or beef ribs.

2012 Malbec (about $30) – Spicy blackberry and blueberry aromas and flavors are complemented with additional fruits of black currant and dried cherry on the palate. It’s compact, dense and well-structured with a pleasant, somewhat meaty finish.

2012 Reserve Zinfandel (about $30) – This exquisitely crafted zin displays all the components of a perfectly balanced wine: candied cherry aromatics, a splash of bright acidity, soft black cherry fruit, and a finish capped with subtle black pepper, toasted oak, and faintly chalky tannins. Outstanding!

2010 The Geologist Bordeaux Blend (about $50) – I realize this is from the 2010 vintage, but this just-released combination of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec bears mentioning. The wine’s aromas of butterscotch and freshly brewed coffee lead into reserved, dark berry fruits and a lengthy finish with vanilla accents. It’s heady, yet elegant and should not be missed.

Washington Producing Some Superb Rhone Valley Varietals

March 10th, 2015

Last month I covered several of the more popular Rhône varietals that have found their way into Washington vineyards. Since then, I’ve been on a self-imposed mission to search out, taste, and come up with some specific recommendations of wines produced from these varietals that I think you’ll enjoy.

The only problem I encountered: narrowing down the list of superb wines I tasted in an effort to give you the best of the best.

nullTo refresh your memory, a Rhône varietal is one of 22 grapes sanctioned by the French government for wine production within that country’s Rhône Valley. Of these, the top six varietals now grown in Washington are syrah, viognier, grenache, roussanne, marsanne, and mourvèdre.

Corvidae Wine Company Lenore 2011 Syrah (about $16) – Gorgeous, black cherry flavors stand out with undertones of gamey meats and subtle, sultry spices on a silky-soft finish. This over-achieving, entry-level selection from Owen Roe Winery delivers from start to finish and is a classic example of excellent winemaking during a challenging vintage year. The 2012 vintage of this wine is now also currently available.

Cougar Crest Estate Winery 2013 Viognier (about $22) – Sourced from Walla Walla Valley estate vineyards, this wine’s big aromatics of lemon and key lime are matched with honeydew melon flavors and bold tropical fruits of mango, papaya and pineapple. The finish is slightly plump with a borderline-sweet trailing note.

Maryhill Winery 2009 Syrah (about $22) – This older vintage syrah is still available and drinking beautifully. Honey-graham and vanilla bean aromas, a mouthful of dark cherry fruits on the mid-palate, and a lengthy finish with accents of caramel and black licorice highlight this fine effort.

nullLookout Point Winery 2011 Grenache (about $24) – There’s a nice fleshy quality to this wine, while at the same time brighter strawberry, red currant and pomegranate flavors come through on the finish along with a spritz of white pepper.

Keep your eye on winemaker George Petzinger, who’s really hitting his stride with this micro-boutique winery that operates from a cozy tasting room in downtown Yakima.

Forgeron Cellars 2013 Façon Blanc (about $25) – This tasty blend of four white Rhône varietals – roussanne, grenache blanc, viognier, and marsanne – is filled with mouth-watering white peach and apricot flavors that transition into crisp, vibrant citrus while still maintaining a full-bodied quality. Another stunning effort from Walla Walla winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla.

Maryhill Winery 2011 Marvel ~ GSM (about $40) – What more can one say about this highly-decorated wine that was Great Northwest Wine’s 2014 Wine of the Year? Grenache, syrah and mourvèdre converge in this red blend with smoky, pepper bacon on the nose, understated mincemeat and fig flavors and, when decanted for several hours, a soft, chocolaty finish. Truly a phenomenal wine worth savoring.

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