Barbequing? Don’t Forget the Red Wines!

May 19th, 2015

The Memorial Day holiday is coming up this weekend…really. For many, it’s the unofficial start of barbequing season, although, if you’re like me, you’ve probably jumped the gun and been cooking outdoors on the grill for weeks.

No matter what your time frame, having a good selection of red wines on hand to pair with your barbequed and grilled foods is a must.

Red wines make good pairing partners because many of them complement the smoky, charred quality that meats and vegetables pick up after they’ve been on the grill. Malbec, cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, syrah, and petite syrah are all good examples of red wines for you to consider and even mid-range varietals such as tempranillo, grenache, cabernet franc and sangiovese can go well with grilled foods.

My only note of caution is to go easy on any accompanying sauces and spices in your cooking. These might drown out the flavors of your wine if used to excess.

nullHere are a few suggestions of red wines I’ve enjoyed as of late that are worth a try:

From Chile’s Colchagua Valley, the Montes Alpha Dry Farmed 2012 Carmenère and 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $18 to $24 each) were produced from grapes grown utilizing a farming method with virtually no irrigation.

This decreases water usage by up to 65% and results in smaller grapes with more of a dense, concentrated flavor profile.

The Montes Carmenère is outstanding, with a whiff of white pepper to begin, ultra-dark blueberry and black currant flavors, and a spritz of pepper and dried herbs on an elegant finish. The Montes Cabernet displays more red plum and cherry fruits and a bit more grippy tannins. Both should pair nicely with steak, lamb or pork.

The Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni 2011 (about $25) is a cabernet sauvignon-based red with merlot, cabernet franc, and sangiovese blended in. Bright fruits of red currant, pie cherry, and field berries lead off, with a slightly spicy finish and firm tannins. Try it with grilled vegetables basted in butter, roast chicken or pork tenderloin.

From Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills Appellation, the Double Canyon 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (about $25) is a must-try red. Big blackberry and dark cherry flavors fill the glass, with a dusting of baking spice for starters. As the wine progresses, brighter red fruits come through on the finish with a trailing note of licorice root and black pepper. Excellent!

Sourced from Yakima Valley grapes, the Palencia Wine Company 2012 Casa Amarilla GSM (about $36) is a 60/30/10 combination of grenache, syrah, and mourvedre. The grenache really shines through with its vibrant red cherry flavors; then there’s just the right balance of tannic structure and a bit of spicy smokiness on the finish. Perfect with barbeque pork or beef brisket.

Spokane’s Latah Creek Winery a Model of Consistency

May 12th, 2015

Keeping a winery up and running with a consistent product year after year is no small feat. The fact that Mike and Ellena Conway of Latah Creek Wine Cellars have been doing just that since 1980 is nothing short of amazing.

When the Conways started their winery in Spokane nearly 35 years ago there were only 17 others in Washington. Since that time, the state’s winery count has swelled to 850-plus.

What’s the their secret? Certainly their commitment to affordably priced wines in a relaxed atmosphere has to be a consideration. The tasting room, located just off Interstate 90 a few miles east of downtown Spokane, is as unpretentious as they come, with an unabashedly kitschy retail inventory that engulfs the tasting bar.

nullWhile this might be off-putting to some, those with more of a laid-back, casual approach to tasting wines will probably feel right at home.

That’s likely what the Conways envisioned while nurturing this mainstay Washington winery to its current annual production level of around 15,000 cases. And to insure this sense of family continues, their daughter, Natalie Barnes, joined the winery in 2004 and now shares winemaking duties.

Here are my tasting notes on some current releases I sampled during a visit to Spokane last month:

2013 Riesling (about $10) – Gentle floral aromas lead off, with juicy melon and tropical fruit flavors. Steely acidity balances out the sweetness that comes through as a whisper of honeycomb on the finish.

2012 Chardonnay (about $12) – This biannually produced chardonnay bears some nice minerality from the Ancient Lakes region’s terrior along with Golden Delicious apple and pear flavors. There’s a touch of citrus in the latter stages along with a hint of toasted oak.

2014 Moscato (about $15) – Mike Conway believes that muscat is one of the state’s most underappreciated grapes and his interpretation of the varietal offers a nice balance of fruit, acidity, and sweetness. White flower aromatics, lychee and pineapple flavors, and a finish of subtle spices highlight this aperitif-style wine.

2012 Ellena’s Sangiovese (about $18) – Bright red fruit flavors of cherry and currant melt into a slightly smoky finish with grippy tannins in the background. A pairing with pasta and marinara sauce immediately comes to mind.

Non-Vintage Monarch Red (pictured above, about $20) – This complex blend of merlot, tempranillo, malbec, and syrah is drinking beautifully. Delicious plum, dark cherry and black currant flavors melt into layered finishing notes of espresso and mocha.

2010 Natalie’s Nectar (about $15) – This blend of finished and unfiltered juice from syrah grapes displays a mouthful of dried cherry flavors and slightly sweet finish. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind red wine that pairs well with dark chocolate.

Latah Creek Wine Cellars’ tasting room is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Order online at latahcreek.com

South African Wines Provide Great Choices for Wine Enthusiasts

May 5th, 2015

This week, I’ll venture outside of the Pacific Northwest to feature a number of wines from South Africa.

This part of the world of wine has really come into its own during the past decade or two, but its winemaking roots trace back to the 17th century.

European settlers, particularly the Dutch and French, brought the initial vines to this area and began making wines with the first recorded South African vintage in 1659.

Today you’ll find varietals such as riesling, chardonnay, chenin blanc sauvignon blanc, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, malbec, and merlot – to name a few – commonplace among South Africa vineyards. Also notable is pinotage, a pinot noir-esque grape that is the only grape variety authentic to the country.

The combination of winemaking history and diverse wine grapes has made South Africa a formidable player in the world market.

Here are some current releases I think you’ll enjoy:

nullMAN Family Wines 2014 Chenin Blanc (about $11) – Sourced from South Africa’s Paarl District, the vineyards for this wine are planted at higher altitudes in mostly shale soils. Gentle tropical fruit aromas lead to a zingy streak of ruby red grapefruit on the palate. There’s also plenty of steely minerality on a linen-crisp finish that allows it to pair with oysters, creamy pasta salad and roast poultry. Outstanding!

Seven Sisters Non-Vintage Odelia Sweet White Wine (about $12) – If you have an aversion to sweeter wines, don’t let the label deter you from giving this a try. A nice splash of acidity balances out the wine’s sweetness, making it instantly enjoyable when served well-chilled. Made from the bukettraube (pronounced bu-ke-traw-bah) grape, it’s packed with golden delicious apple flavors and a touch of tangerine on the extreme finish.

Indaba Wines 2014 Mosaic (about $12) – This cabernet sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend of five red varietals is released early in a Beaujolais style and might not be everyone’s cup of tea. Still, it’s an interesting and rather unique wine with big blackberry fruit, clove and spice undertones, and somewhat bright and tangy finishing notes.

De Wetshof Estate Limestone Hill 2014 Chardonnay (about $20) – This chardonnay is grown in the higher elevations of South Africa’s Robertson District; an area that is known for its lime-rich soils. Baked apple flavors are rounded with a nice touch of toasted almond and then capped with lemon-citrus accents on a slightly earthy finish.

Reyneke Wines 2012 Capstone (about $25) – This superb blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc is made from biodynamically-farmed grapes without the use of yeasts, enzymes or added acidity. Gorgeous aromas of spiced berries fill the glass, with juicy black currant and berry flavors, hints of white pepper, and a dense, meaty/gamey texture that demands a pairing with anything beef.

Go to Chaberton Estate in Langley, BC for Excellent Food and Wine

April 28th, 2015

Have you ever had a great experience somewhere, only to return years later and find that things just weren’t the same?

I remember having an excellent visit at Chaberton Estate Winery three years ago, and not wanting to get my hopes up too much, set the bar a bit lower for my return earlier this month. After all, it couldn’t get much better than that first experience, could it?

Oh yes it could. In fact, it was exceptional.

General Manager Brian Ensor took me through a tour and tasting at the winery’s Langley, British Columbia facility that concluded with a first-class dinner and very reasonably priced wines that should have Whatcom County residents lining up for reservations.

But before I get too far, let’s start with the grapes.

Chaberton Estate is home to about 50 acres of estate grown grapes in its cooler climate, Fraser Valley location. The bacchus grape is responsible for about one-third of the total plantings and Ensor feels that the wines it yields are among Chaberton’s best.

The winery also produces wines from a number of warm-weather varietals, such as Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, which are sourced from the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys in Eastern British Columbia.

Together, they contribute to a sizable production totaling about 48,000 cases annually, making it the fourth largest winery in the province.

After spending time in the tasting room and retail store, visitors can have lunch or dinner at the adjacent Bacchus Bistro, where Executive Chef Ashley Chisham provides a small but sumptuous menu designed to complement a wine list that consists almost exclusively of Chaberton wines.

Here’s a small sample of some of the wines I tasted during my most recent visit. Note that all prices are in Canadian dollars at the tasting room, excluding taxes:

null2013 Reserve Bacchus ($15) – This lovely white wine displays stone fruit and white flower aromatics, generous flavors of peach, tangerine and citrus, and a spicy/semi-sweet finish. The 2013 Reserve Dry Bacchus ($15) replaces the sweetness with refreshing, laser-sharp acidity that is absolutely astounding.

2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($21) – Dark berry and plum flavors predominate, with touches of toasted oak and cocoa powder on the slightly textured finish. Try it with the restaurant’s signature dish, beef bourguignon.

2012 Reserve Meritage ($24) – This blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc is big on black cherry and currant aromas and flavors that extend into a surprisingly soft finish.

Chaberton Estate Winery and Bacchus Bistro are easily accessible via either the Blaine/SR-543 or Lynden/Aldergrove crossings and only about an hour’s drive, plus border wait times, from Bellingham.

For a complete list of the winery’s current releases, along with hours, directions, and restaurant information, go to chabertonwinery.com.

What’s My Favorite Wine? Here Are a Few Suggestions

April 21st, 2015

What’s your favorite wine?

That’s easily one of the most-asked questions I’ve encountered during the past 15 years as a wine columnist for the Herald.

The answer, of course, is always a moving target, as new wines are introduced into the market and older vintages go out of circulation as they’re consumed or cellared.

One of my goals at last month’s Taste Washington event in Seattle was to come up with a laundry list, of sorts, of some current “favorite” wines from the attending 200-plus wineries to pass along to consumers.

Given the time constraints and volume of wines at this event, first impressions mean everything. So with that in mind, here are my notes on some standout wines I sampled during my whirlwind tasting:

White Blends: COR Cellars poured an awesome 2014 Celilo Vineyard Alba COR, sourced from Columbia Gorge gewürztraminer and pinot gris grapes; Lake Chelan’s Charlie Lybecker had another winner with his Cairdeas Winery 2013 Southern White Rhône Blend; and Cloudlift Cellars continued to impress with a lovely Bordeaux blend in its 2012 Updraft White.

White Single Varietal Labels: The Ancestry Cellars 2014 Rejouissant Sauvignon Blanc piqued my taste buds with its laser-sharp acidity and crisp, clean finish, as did the Tempus Cellars 2013 Riesling; Victor Palencia scored again with his Palencia Winery 2014 Albariño; and two over-the-top 2013 Columbia Valley chardonnays I enjoyed included those from Walla Walla’s Forgeron Cellars and Guardian Cellars in Woodinville.

nullSparkling and Rosé Wines: Yakima’s Treveri Cellars’ two Non-Vintage Brut Methode Champenoise sparklers, a Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noir were both excellent, as was the 2011 Brut from Karma Vineyards in Chelan (albeit at over twice the price); while Seven Hills Winery served a gorgeous, pale pink 2014 Dry Rosé Cabernet Franc.

Red Blends: A pair of Woodinville winery red blends were amazing: the Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Byzance Red Rhône Blend and Robert Ramsey Cellars 2012 Le Mien Red Rhône Blend (pictured at left); Scott Southard of Selah’s Southard Winery poured a mind-blowing 2012 Red Blend that was insanely underpriced, as were two of Redmond’s Cinq Cellars’ selections, a 2012 “The Professors” Bordeaux Blend and 2012 “The Storm” Rhône Blend.

Red Single Varietal Labels: Spokane’s Barrister Winery featured a stunning 2012 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah that was probably near the top of my list of favorites; Des Voigne Cellars’ 2012 The Duke Zinfandel was unique, spicy and flavorful; relative newcomers J&J Vintners’ 2012 Malbec and 2012 Syrah represented Walla Walla Valley fruit at its finest.

Zillah’s Two Mountain Winery 2012 Estate Cabernet Franc was superb, as was the 2013 Cabernet Franc from Walla Walla Vintners; and the $89-a-bottle Doubleback 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon was so spectacular it nearly justified its stratospheric price.

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