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Dan the Wine Guy

Last week I focused on the white wine varietal roussanne, and this week we’ll take a look at marsanne, a grape with many similarities.

Like roussanne, marsanne is thought to have originated in the Rhône Valley of France. It’s also used primarily for blending purposes, especially with roussanne and viognier, and it’s somewhat viscous with a waxy, oily mouthfeel. Along with roussanne, it is one of a handful of white wines that can be cellared for long periods of time.

The grape’s characteristics generally include pleasant nutty, herbal aromatics and flavors along with melon and citrus fruits. It’s also low in alcohol with moderate acidity, making it a terrific wine to pair most seafood – particularly lobster and scallops – roasted vegetables such as butternut squash, and pasta and risotto served with a touch of heavy cream.

Surprisingly, most of the world’s marsanne is now grown in Australia, but it’s also caught on domestically, with small plantings in both California and Washington. You’re likely to find it in the Northwest as part of a blend, but it’s also bottled on its own by a small, but increasing number of wineries.

My advice is to have fun with this wine. It can range anywhere from subtle and reserved to big and assertive and chances are, if you’ve never tried it, you’ll find it to be unlike many of the other mainstream white wines you’re accustomed to.

Here are some marsannes I’ve enjoyed as of late for you to consider:

Mount Baker Vineyards 2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Marsanne (about $8) – This is a prime example of an older vintage that’s holding up beautifully while some white wines from this time frame are past their prime. Brilliant golden color, gentle pear, allspice and nutmeg on the palate, and a big, viscous mouthfeel. Currently available at the winery tasting room, Ferndale Haggen, and The Market at Birch Bay at a blowout, bargain price.

Treana Winery 2009 White Wine (about $22) – I sampled this 50/50 blend of marsanne and viognier at the Vancouver BC Playhouse Wine Festival in March, and it was love at first sip. Peach and floral aromatics, pineapple and dried apricot flavors, a seductive, lengthy honey-like finish and just the right touch of minerality combine to make this spectacular wine from California’s Central Coast region.

Alexandria Nicole 2010 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Marsanne (about $28) – From Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills Appellation, this exquisite marsanne features plenty of melon, peach and nectarine flavors. The long, plush finish is capped with hints of hazelnut and spicy accents.

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Roussanne is a white wine grape that’s probably been around for centuries and yet, until recently, it remained in relative obscurity in Washington State.

It’s most likely that the grape originated in the Rhone Valley of France, and although it is primarily used for blending purposes, I’m starting to see it offered by more and more Northwest winemakers as a stand-alone varietal.

The wine’s characteristics are complex and varied, but more often than not you’re likely to find it with herbal and floral aromatics, a flavor profile of pear and dried stone fruits, and good acidity and minerality.

Roussanne also has a nice viscous quality, which gives it more of a rich, full-bodied feel. It can be fermented in either oak or stainless steel and, while other white wines should be consumed fairly young, Roussanne offers wine enthusiasts the luxury of cellaring it for as long as 10 to 15 years.

The more I try this wine, the more I enjoy it. You’ll have to do a little searching sometimes to find it, but the payoff is a marvelously unique white wine you can easily consume now or tuck away for future enjoyment.

Here are some personal recommendations of Roussanne that are currently available from Washington wineries:

Mount Baker Vineyards 2010 Proprietor’s Limited Release Roussanne (about $13) – This delicious wine is fun and flavorful and offers plenty of bang for the buck. Peachy, grassy aromas and lengthy dried apricot flavors melt into a slightly edgy finish with a bit of bright acidity.

Silver Bell Winery 2011 Marsala Vineyard Roussanne (about $13) – Skagit County’s newest boutique winery in Burlington offers this just released Roussanne that’s produced in an Old World style. Pear and apple spice cake on the nose with a nice mineral/slate quality make this an excellent choice to serve with a cod, snapper or halibut fillet.

Cairdeas Winery 2011 Roussanne (about $22) West Seattle winemaker Charlie Lybecker has really impressed me with his wines and he’s done another first-class job with this Columbia Valley Roussanne. I found it to be a bit on the tropical side, with juicy pineapple flavors, beautiful mineral notes and just the right balance of acidity. Excellent!

A few more options that I’ve yet to try that might be worth considering include Woodinville’s Novelty Hill Winery 2009 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne (about $22) and Syncline Wine Cellars 2010 McKinley Springs Vineyard Roussanne (also about $22).

Sometimes I find myself discovering a new winery in the most unlikely places.

This one comes to me by way of my dad, who hobnobs at Skagit Golf & Country Club with Alan Holtzheimer, owner/winemaker of Silver Bell Winery.

Silver Bell is, without a doubt, one of the smallest wineries I’ve ever encountered, but it’s not unlike dozens of other Washington wineries that got their start with nothing more than a home winemaking kit and someone who had the desire and drive to make their own premium wines.

Holtzheimer, who describes himself as “the world’s biggest anti-wine snob,” produces wine from his home-based business in Burlington. He recently invited me and my dad to a preview of his new releases at the winery tasting room, which conveniently doubles as the family garage.

The unpretentious setting, the lack of a winemaking pedigree…I had to ask myself, what the heck was I getting into? But Holtzheimer pointed out that he sources his fruit from quality vineyards and his wines had already passed the discriminating palate of Doug Charles of Compass Wines in Anacortes, who now carries them in his wine shop. Validation of that kind is good enough for me.

Here are my tasting notes on some of the wines I sampled:

2011 Copeland Vineyard Riesling (about $17) – Sourced from the Two Mountain Winery estate vineyards near Zillah, this is a lovely riesling that’s slightly fruity and refreshingly different. Apricot aromatics combine with more fresh apricot and peach flavors on the palate. The wine’s crisp acidity balances out a one-percent residual sugar content to virtual dryness.

2011 Airport Ranch Pinot Gris (about $20) – From Airfield Estates-owned vineyards near Prosser, this is textbook pinot gris. Bartlett pear and the tangy acidity of Granny Smith apple pops out in the initial stages and then lingers on to a finish with accents of dried pear.

2010 Dineen Vineyard Syrah (about $35) – This Rattlesnake Hills Appellation syrah spent 18 months in French oak and it’s drinking quite nicely. Green tea and strawberry on the nose, bright, red fruit flavors, a splash of acidity, and gentle, background tannins round out this fine effort.

Silver Bell wines are available for private tastings by phoning the winery at (360) 757-WINE or emailing Silver.Bell.Winery@gmail.com. Another option is a private wine tasting in your home which, remarkably, Holtzheimer currently offers free of charge.

And finally, you can sample Silver Bell wines at a spring release party on May 6 from 1 to 5 pm at Skagit Golf & Country Club. It’s open to the public and also free.