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Cheers!
Dan the Wine Guy

I first visited Walla Walla Vintners in the mid-1990’s when only a handful of wineries existed in this now storied Washington wine region.

I recall meeting with winemaker Gordy Venneri and tasting some blockbuster red wines that were worthy of comparison to nearby Leonetti Cellar.

Little has changed since then except for the fact that things have gotten even better. Walla Walla Vintners still focuses only on red wines, and it’s a strategy that has worked well over the years. The winery has earned a reputation – and the accolades to go with it – for producing some of biggest and finest red wines in the Walla Walla area.

In today’s market, where some wineries stretch themselves thin with dozens of varietals, it’s refreshing to find that Venneri and winemaking partner Myles Anderson have chosen to concentrate on what they do best. Their small number of reds isn’t formulaic and reflects the quality of attention-to-detail winemaking.

Today’s reviewed wines are thoroughly enjoyable with ample aeration, but I think they’ll benefit even more with a little cellaring time. Simply put, these are the types of red wines that tell you slow down, relax, and savor each sip.

Here are my tasting notes on a few of the winery’s current releases:

2011 Columbia Valley Sangiovese (about $25) – Dark blueberry flavors lead off, with more of a brighter red currant edginess as the acidity gradually makes its way through. The transition is smooth, and faint finishing notes of vanilla bean and caramel result in an almost “elegant” sangiovese. Excellent!

2010 Walla Walla Valley Merlot (about $29) – Beautiful red berry and Rainier cherry flavors develop into darker fruits of plum and black currant as the wine progresses. Melt-in-your-mouth tannins give this wine an air of sophistication and will make you glad you’re a Washington merlot drinker.

2010 Columbia Valley Malbec (about $30) – Big, rugged and inky, this wine displays nuances of espresso and leather for starters and then more black olive and blackberry fruits as it opens up. Dense and compact, this is one powerful malbec.

2009 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (about $37) – Aromatics of cigar box and burnt toast are followed by seamless layers of black cherry, chocolate truffle, rum raisin and fig. The relatively plush finish is capped with a sprinkle of white pepper and allspice.

You’ll find Walla Walla Vintners wines at Purple Smile Wines in Bellingham and Compass Wines in Anacortes. They are also available for purchase on line at wallawallavintners.com.

Posts on this web site under the category “Bellingham Herald Articles” were originally printed in the Bellingham Herald…the source for Whatcom County, Washington news.

For the latest updates in local, regional and national news, visit their web site at www.bellinghamherald.com

I’ve followed the evolution of Dakota Creek Winery in Blaine almost since day one and it’s been a most rewarding experience.

Husband and wife winemaker/owners Ken and Jill Peck have carved out a niche among Whatcom County wine enthusiasts by producing solid wines sourced from Eastern Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills Appellation.

Their fan base appears to be a most loyal group, demonstrated by a near-full tasting room and outdoor seating area during my most recent weekend visit.

Of course, having a sun-splashed afternoon and tastes of blissful chocolates from Bellingham’s Evolve Truffles on hand didn’t hurt, but it’s the wines that keep bringing people back. And after sampling a number of Dakota Creek’s upcoming new releases I think it’s safe to say that these could be some of the best wines the Pecks have produced.

Here’s a sneak peak of what to expect when these wines become available to the general public during the winery’s Spring Release event on Mother’s Day weekend:

A 2010 Viognier (about $20) is the winery’s sole white wine new release, displaying gentle peach aromatics and flavors along with a trace of licorice root and hazelnut on the finish.

The four new red wines slated for release include the 2010 Dolcetto (about $22), with a fragrant nose that I thought resembled Jolly Rancher Fire Stix. On the palate, there’s some nice, bright strawberry and cherry tomato flavors with a touch of herbaceousness.

A 2010 Malbec (about $24) is one of those wines that gets better with every sip. Understated brambly berries lead off, while a spritz of black pepper and underlying layer of toasted oak come through on the finish.

A bit unconventional in that it leans towards the fruity, rather than the meaty, tannic side, the 2010 Petit Verdot (about $24) still displays plenty of heft between the black cherry aromas and flavors that predominate. A pleasant whisper of orange zest rounds out the package.

Drinking beautifully now, the syrah-based, four varietal 2010 Jill’s Blend (about $25) begins on an almost buttery, velvety note with dark berry and cherry flavors. Brighter red currant and pomegranate follow, along with a dusting of chalky tannins.

A final note: Eight other Whatcom County wineries will join Dakota Creek by participating in Spring Release Weekend from May 10 to 12. They include Dynasty Cellars, GLM Wine Company, Inyo Winery, Masquerade Wine Company, Mount Baker Vineyards, Samson Estates, Vartanyan Estate Winery, and Willow Tree Vineyard. Check with each winery for its scheduled new wines and special events.

While sifting through my archives I discovered that it’s been about four years since I gave malbec center stage in a wine column.

At that time I noted, “It wasn’t too long ago that the only place you could find a malbec at your local grocer or wine shop was from France or Argentina. Today, it seems as if nearly every winery in Washington has a malbec on the shelves or plans to produce one.”

Fast-forward to today and that statement seems even more appropriate for Washington wineries, and chances are if one doesn’t carry malbec as a stand-alone wine, it’s used for blending purposes with one or more other red varietals.

This flavorful, easy-to-drink red wine has become a favorite of many Northwest wine enthusiasts. And although it’s still a small player among red varietals, production of the wine grape in Washington has nearly tripled since 2007.

Carnivores can take comfort in the fact that malbec likes to be paired with meats, and as we inch closer to the outdoor grilling season, you’ll most certainly want to pick up a bottle to try with barbeque chicken, burgers, steak or lamb.

Here are a couple of suggestions of Washington malbecs to consider:

Powers Winery 2009 Malbec (about $15) – Amazing aromatics of blackberry leaf, cedar and juniper are followed by raspberry flavors that transition to black plum on the palate. The slightly chalky finish is framed with a hint of spearmint. Give this wine time to evolve in the glass and I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised at its complexity and depth.

CAVU Cellars Les Collines Vineyard 2010 Malbec (about $30) – Here’s another strong effort from this relatively new Walla Walla winery. Lovely aromas and flavors of wild blueberry are accentuated with finishing notes of espresso, white pepper and baking spice. Enjoy now or cellar for another year or two.

Also, don’t forget to venture outside of Washington to South America, where a number of excellent malbecs are produced at very reasonable prices. Two solid recommendations:

Trivento 2011 Reserve Malbec (about $11) – I loved the fruit-forward features of this Argentinian wine, but there’s also some nicely integrated tannins to provide structure and balance. Mouthwatering cherry and red berry flavors lead off, with underlying touches of bittersweet chocolate on the finish.

Casillero Del Diablo 2011 Malbec (about $15) – This is a great “everyday” dinner wine, also from Argentina’s Mendoza region. Its classic, darkly shaded juice yields understated plum and cherry flavors, a whisper of smokiness and a somewhat plush finish.